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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Green-tinged straw color. Initially less expressive nose opened to show floral, herbal and vanillin notes as well as a pungent minerally quality. Very sweet but very suave, with fresh but perfectly integrated acidity serving to frame and intensify the superb, mineral-and-citric fruit. Can’t match the ’90 for pure size and power but the harmoniousness of…

Vinous Table: Charity Dinner to Benefit the Frankie Lemmon School (Mar 2014)

Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is one of my very favorite wines. Unfortunately I don’t get a chance to drink it all that often. Our magnum of 1990 is truly magnificent. A wine that takes over all the senses, the 1990 impresses for its layered personality and breathtaking fruit. In a word: stunning. The…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a dark stallion of a wine that showcases both the depth and radiance of the vintage. At first, its bouquet is dark and earthy, yet quickly blossoms into an enthralling mix of musky red currants, wild peppery herbs, dusty rose and worn leather. While satiny in feel, it’s also…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

Gaja’s 2016 Barbaresco is positively stellar. A wine of poise and grace, the 2016 has so much to offer. Expressive spice and floral notes open up first, but what really stands out is the wine’s nuance and delineation. There is a sense of translucency to the 2016 that is impossible to miss. Sweet red cherry,…