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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Nearly opaque glass-staining purple-ruby. Overripe nose combines aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, cedary oak and truffle. Lush and rather exotic in the mouth, with the liqueur-like quality extending to the ripe black fruit, chocolate and candied violet flavors. Starts off quite sweet but finishes a bit hot and abrupt, with slightly astringent tannins. Some critics…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Fleur-Pétrus is tightly wound on the nose at first with plenty of black truffle infused red fruit, crushed rose petals and veins of dark chocolate, but it does not quite possess the amplitude of say, the 2009 Le Gay. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and good tension. Pure red and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Reticent nose hints at plum. Fat, sweet and voluminous, with mouthfilling plum and cherry fruit flavors complicated by smoke and underbrush. This seriously concentrated and firmly structured wine is most impressive today on the long, insinuating finish, which offers terrific focus for a 2009 Pomerol.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is showing a bit of new oak on the nose, but it is simpatico with the pure red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a silver bead of acidity, full of tension and surfeit with energy. There is superb salinity…

Vinous Table: Mudan Tempura – Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

The 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc from de Vogüé, which I would have last tasted in barrel with former winemaker François Millet, is quite powerful on the nose, in my mind, curiously Côte de Beaune-like in style. Given the growing season in question, I would have liked more tension and -mineralité_. The palate has a…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Bright red cherry, raspberry and expressive floral notes from the Cabernet Franc are some of the signatures in the 2014 Latour à Pomerol. A wine of precision, tension and energy, the 2014 exudes class. Hints of white pepper and cranberry add further brightness as the wine gradually opens up. The 2014 has become more polished…