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Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2014)

Inky purple. Wild, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dark fruit preserves, candied licorice, woodsmoke and violet oil. Plush, palate-staining cassis and blackberry flavors are lifted by juicy acidity and a strong jolt of peppery spices. Opens up with aeration, picking up a hint of medicinal bitterness that plays nicely with the powerful fruit. Sappy, peppery and…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot) Dark ruby-red with purple highlights. Slightly reduced, musky aromas of red berries, fresh herbs and lavender come across as rather cool. Then delicately smoky and fresh on the palate but the black fruit, mineral and underbrush flavors are still youthfully…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Smith Haut Lafitte has a tertiary, tobacco-tinged bouquet that opens nicely with aeration, though remains resolutely classic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine depth, very focused with a precise and very intense finish that is very persistent. There is real quality here, a 2010 that will age with style….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Smith Haut-Lafitte has one of the most backward bouquets among its peers and required more coaxing from the glass. It eventually offers well defined blackberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois and tobacco notes, quite serious but very engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. There is good body and density here, but it loosens…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Full ruby-red. Very ripe yet precise nose offers blueberry, black raspberry, violet, spices and sexy dried herbs; still a bit youthfully medicinal but already showing a lot of personality. Rich, pliant and hugely deep, with near-chocolatey ripeness to the highly concentrated dark berry, tobacco and spice flavors. This wonderfully broad, seamless, layered wine dusts the…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Petit Ducru de Ducru Beaucaillou comes from 25 hectares on the western part of the appellation (10 hectares currently being re-planted) with declassified La Croix and Ducru Beaucaillou. It has a very focused bouquet of black fruit infused with graphite/pencil lead scents, a touch of brine emerging with time. The palate is…