Archives: Product Reviews

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New Releases from Australia (Jul 2010)

(includes 11% cabernet sauvignon) Saturated red. Highly perfumed bouquet of blackcurrant, dried cherry, woodsmoke, potpourri and subtle herbs. Suave and velvety on entry, gaining structure in the mid-palate and offering incisive red and dark berry preserve and bitter cherry flavors and notes of violet pastille and anise. The finish is sweet and penetrating, with very…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is in a great spot. Baked apple tart, spice, chamomile, marzipan, slate and chalk confer tremendous vibrancy and power throughout. Bright saline notes play off the natural exuberance of the year. The 2006 was spectacular on release. It is all that today, too.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol without chaptalization; the estate did only one vinification, as the younger vines that normally go into a Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru were much more affected by the frost; just 12.5 hectoliters per hectare produced, yielding just five barrels of wine, three of them new): Dark red-ruby. Black cherry, complex soil tones and licorice on…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru exhibits more whole bunch character than the other four “CSJs”. Brambly red fruit, brown spices and a touch of wet limestone. This is unquestionably the most transparent of the five. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, slightly coarser tannins but so much energy and tension….