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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2011 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined nose with tightly-wound black fruit laced with mint and graphite. This certainly needs time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fleshy tannins. It’s open and generous with black cherries, wild strawberries and touches of orange rind. There’s good substance, and it’s fleshy on the finish. The…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Romanée Grand Cru puts in a curious showing. Paler in hue, I wonder whether there is any stem addition in the wine. Indeed, the nose is lighter than expected, with red cherries, strawberries, loam and espresso. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with commendable sharpness on the entry. Lightly spiced with a…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2009 La Romanée is warm, radiant and seductive, with all of the charm that is so typical of the year. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, plum, leather and spice take on bold shades of expression. The 2009 is a bit hard to taste in this context, as all the other wines served alongside it…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full medium red. Knockout, soil-driven nose combines black raspberry, flint, coffee and smoky minerality. Like liquid silk in the mouth but with superb energy for the vintage. In its creamy sweetness, firm structure and tight but fine-grained texture this reminded me of a platonic 2007 Barolo. The rising, palate-staining finish features noble tannins and…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Hosanna was the third vintage of this cuvée, and I was rather tepid in my reaction upon release. Now, after 20 years (has it really been that long?), I am still not convinced. It has a herbaceous nose, indicating that maybe some fruit did not reach phenolic ripeness. It certainly pales against some…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright, deep red. Sexy, quintessential Pomerol aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, cherry, leather and smoke. Lush, pliant and seamless; round, broad and shapely but classically dry. Finishes with noble tannins and excellent length. Very suave and stylish wine.