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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Batailley has come together beautifully with élevage. There is plenty of power and intensity, but also a greater degree of finesse than in the past. Black cherry, licorice, leather, smoke and spice lend a good deal of gravitas. I would give the 2019 a few years to come together.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2014 Brut Rosé Vintage is a wine of real power and intensity. Finely cut and also deep, the 2014 packs tons of vigor into its mid-weight frame. Dried pear, spice, licorice and red berry fruit begin to emerge with a bit of air, but the 2014 really needs a bit of time in bottle…

English Sparkling Wine: Effervescence and Reserve (Feb 2025)

The 2019 Brut Blanc de Blancs, made from Kent and West Sussex fruit with some base wines fermented in oak, spent 46 months on lees. It opens with a touch of Amalfi lemon peel that fills out into lemony bright creaminess. The palate is beautifully lithe and smooth, expanding like light in a dark room….

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru does not quite have the vigour and energy displayed by Bruno Clair on the nose. Open-knit red fruit, a slight chalky character come through with aeration. Understated, yet there is Grand Cru pedigree here and it blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated, quite bold tannins that frame…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a level up in terms of intensity, offering layers of black cherry and blueberry fruit; this could only come from this particular vineyard. Wonderful precision and quite floral. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, succulent tannins and a very saline finish. A very intense Bonnes-Mares, almost overwhelming toward…

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Roumier offers copious amounts of black cherries and blueberry fruit. It is still a “baby”, though that doesn’t make it unenjoyable, even if you cannot help thinking that it needs at least another decade. The palate is framed by those succulent tannins, one of the tropes of the growing…