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Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2012 Grande Année is vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. Citrus peel, orchard fruit, brioche, dried flowers and chamomile are all finely knit in a Grand Année built on energy and persistence more than size. Readers will find a restrained Grand Année in 2012. There is plenty of the textural richness that is such a signature…

New Releases from Washington: A Bonanza for Consumers (Dec 2019)

Bright red-ruby. Urgent, very pure aromas of pungent dark cherry, black olive and chicory lifted by a floral topnote. Wonderfully silky and velvety in the mouth, but also with terrific definition to its alluring flavors of framboise, dried herbs, briny olive and dried Indian spices. This round, utterly seamless, mouthfilling Syrah finishes with ripe, noble…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Delicate, floral aromas of violets, red berries and tobacco, with a hint of pine needles. Bright and fresh on entry, this lighter-styled, easygoing version of Cheval Blanc offers pretty red cherry and raspberry flavors nicely lifted by a citrus twist. Finishes very long, pure and suave,…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc has a very precise, mineral-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, energetic and incredibly focused, perhaps even more so than Ausone? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin though I discerned a patina of oak dragging its heels, waiting to be subsumed. There is great concentration and yet conversely…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright red-ruby. Brooding aromas and flavors of licorice, cherry pit, bitter chocolate and black cardamom. Lush and sweet in the mouth but with terrific definition and grip. This very young wine is most impressive on the vibrant, mounting, palate-saturating aftertaste, which features fine-grained tannins, solid structure and lovely spicy perfume. Wonderfully aristocratic wine whose outstanding…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate…