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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been a long time since I encountered a bottle of 1995 Léoville Barton. It has a mature, slightly fungal bouquet, a little smudged and certainly without the precision or complexity of the 1995 Ducru Beaucaillou. Yet it develops a heart-warming camphor note with aeration, allied with used tea leaves. The palate is medium-bodied…

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 1995 l’Eglise-Clinet is a wine that I have tasted many times, although probably the most interesting was when Denis Durantou poured a magnum against a bottle. One common trait throughout all the bottles is a delightful Provençal-tinged bouquet, hints of sage and wild fennel that percolate through the red berry fruit. There is power…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Superb deep ruby-red color. Tangy dark berries, smoke and roast coffee on the nose, plus a vaguely gamey, truffley element. Almost painfully intense and sappy today, but this very dense, very sweet wine is beginning to close down. A huge wine whose finishing fruit buries its substantial ripe tannins. Wow!

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1995 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 25 September and 5 October. It has a straight-laced bouquet with earthy red berry fruit, tobacco and a light touch of peppermint. The aromatics feel pinched and do not quite “flow” in the same manner as more recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with soft and rounded tannin,…