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2022 & 2023 Barbaresco: Pushed to the Limit (Oct 2025)

The 2023 Gaia & Rey is superb. In fact, it’s one of the finest Gaia & Reys I have tasted. Vibrant and sculpted to the core, the 2023 is all class. Hints of apricot, white flowers, baked apple and chalk open with a bit of coaxing. This really fleshes out on the back end, where…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Sappy, expressive aromas of cherry, plum, minerals, woodsmoke and game, plus an exotic suggestion of baked apple. Rather subtle on the attack, then quickly expands to fill the mouth. A big, deep, very rich vintage for Lafite, unusually generous at this early stage and extremely long on the aftertaste. But went into a…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 L’Évangile is laced with black cherry, torrefaction, spice, leather, licorice and heavy French oak. It will be interesting to see if the fruit emerges here. Today, the oak is quite dominant in both the wine’s flavor profile and its texture. I would like to think a little more nuance is possible given L’Évangile’s…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 L’Evangile has a relatively backward nose, a bit anonymous at the moment. Light and slightly dusty red fruit mixes with forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant, fine tannins. This is a gentle Pomerol with a somewhat dry and savory finish. Drink soon. [N.B. It is worth reading Antonio Galloni’s cautionary review…

Dom Pérignon Rosé Through the Decades at Vinous Icons

The 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé is one of my favorites among recent vintages. Layered and opulent in the glass, the 2009 is immediately alluring. Soft, plush contours capture all of the radiance of this warm vintage. Even so, the Rosé retains plenty of classicism. Crushed rose petal, sweet red cherry, mint, pomegranate and orange rind…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Perfumed, sexy aromas of cassis, roasted plum, violet, pepper and exotic spices. Quite dry but densely packed, with pungent cassis, leather and mineral flavors complimented by sexy oak tones and a hint of dried herbs. Grew fuller and sweeter as it opened in the glass. Finishes with major toothcoating tannins that avoid dryness….