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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Montrose has a slightly rustic bouquet but is quite charming. It offers mainly red fruit, bacon fat, undergrowth and peaty scents, which are very Saint-Estèphe in style. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins. It is savory and a little dry, especially towards the finish, though there is good weight, and it is…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1982 Cos d’Estournel. This has an elegant bouquet with refined red fruit, cedar and brown spices, with hints of aniseed and peppermint surfacing with aeration. It is not profoundly complex but it is difficult to resist its charms. The palate has a conspicuously ripe and…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1975 Latour is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but this is the first from double magnum. The bottle brought to our table was showing some oxidation. Another is fresher with almost-glossy black fruit laced with liquorice—perhaps a bit heavy-handed for this First Growth, trying too hard to impress. The palate is…

Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)

Pale peach skin color. Aromas of ginger apple, caramel, cinnamon and crystallized ginger. Full, round and concentrated; thick and strong in extract. Rather full dosage nicely leavened by firm acidity. Finishes tactile and long, with a note of honeyed apple. I began with a 90-point score for this wine but marked it down as it…

Veneto Rising: Amarone, Soave and Beyond (Sep 2025)

The 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva is classic Quintarelli to the core, with a vibrant cascade of exotic spices, dried flowers, citrus peels and fresh crushed cherries forming its seductive bouquet. Juicy in feel yet deep and complex, it sweeps across the palate with ripe wildberry fruits elevated by a whiplash of electric acidity…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque ruby. Powerful, deeply pitched red and dark berry preserve, incense and floral pastille scents are enlivened by an intense mineral quality. Concentrated yet strikingly vibrant and focused on the palate, showing bitter cherry, black raspberry and vanilla flavors that spread out with air while maintaining urgency. An extremely long, sweet, penetrating finish features velvety,…