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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2006 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 90% new oak, has quite a captivating, very attractive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit, peony, crushed rocks and blood orange – one of my favourite aromatics on the Left Bank in this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity, quite linear and…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Deep, vibrant aromas of currant, sour cherry, graphite, cedar and licorice. Sappy, suave and energetic, with terrific verve and framing acidity to the tightly wound flavors of dark cherry, currant, spices and minerals. Wonderfully primary and penetrating Saint-Julien, almost painfully intense yet weightless. Finishes very long and fine, with terrific definition. An infant…

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2012 Echézeaux Grand Cru was a potent, tightly wound wine when it was young. Its essential personality has not changed all that much since then! I am shocked to see how incisive the tannins still are. Once past that, the 2012 is deep, youthful and full of energy. At the outset, I was optimistic…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(U.S. cuvée, mostly Narvaux): An aroma of orange zest is lifted by fresh minerality. At once delicate and intense, offering juicy, sharply delineated citrus and stone flavors and superb inner-mouth tension for village wine. Finish with terrific echoing length and energy.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of parcels; 25 hectoliters per hectare from purchased 100%-millerandé grapes): Pale color. Very ripe aromas of orange zest and musky lees. Chewy, dense and saline, conveying very good cut but coming across as a bit youthfully clenched in the middle palate. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Raphael Coche told me that…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Bernadotte is relatively subdued on the nose with earthy black fruit laced with smoke and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with rather scrawny tannins, moderate acidity but it is missing some cohesion and flesh towards the finish. A disappointing showing vis-à-vis previous bottles. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.