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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Grands-Échézeaux comes across as quite wild in its powerful, unrestrained personality. In recent vintages, the GE has become more polished, but the 2013 is a real brute today. Dark, savory almost Syrah-like notes take shape in the glass. Game, smoke, herbs and wild flowers wrap around the imposing, bracing finish. I expect the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. An initial note of reduction dissipated to reveal sexy scents of raspberry, blueberry, smoky minerals and Oriental spices. Densely packed and vibrant, with concentrated berry fruit accented by pepper and spices from the stems. Firm tannins will support slow development in bottle. There’s way more inner-mouth tension and éclat here than I…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Château d’Yquem has a powerful and well defined bouquet, very pure with honey, barley sugar and quince. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that cuts through the concentrated botrytised fruit. Very persistent and quite rich on the finish, this is decadent and rather gorgeous. Long-term. Tasted blind at…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Luminous golden yellow. Cool, pure aromas of white peach, honeyed mango, guava nectar, white flowers and saffron are complicated by elements of crushed stone and spicy lemony botrytis. Suave and intensely flavored, with mineral-spiced apple, mango, passion fruit and grapefruit flavors offering outstanding purity, precision, and depth. The brisk but harmonious acidity gives this great…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Yquem was picked over four tries from 6 September, the earliest for 125 years until 5 October. Slightly paler in colour compared to the 2001 alongside, it has a well defined and slightly Germanic bouquet with that petrol note still present, allied with peach and apricot, honeysuckle and desiccated orange peel. The palate…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish….