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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright medium red. Very pure but very reticent nose hints at blueberry, raspberry, licorice, game and woodsmoke. Delivers a compelling combination of fine-grained texture, deep sweetness and restrained power; still youthfully compressed but already boasts thrilling mouthfilling perfume of tart red fruits, spices and saline minerality. This spectacular Chambertin broadens out on the back half…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2000 Unico, a blend of 93% Tinto Fino and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, is very seductive aromatically, displaying wild strawberry tinged with eucalyptus, primal yet sensual. The oak that always cloaks Unico in its flush of youth is now assimilated. The palate is pliant, yet you immediately recognise that this millennial has plenty of gas…

Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)

A bevy of Dom Pérignons followed. The more I taste DP the more I am convinced that the most consistently reliable bottlings are impeccably well-stored original releases, rather than the far pricier Œnothèque series. The 1995 Dom Pérignon was subtle yet expressive, with an attractive smokiness on the finish.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Wonderfully subtle, complex aromas of white flowers, acacia honey, minerals, nuts and mushroom, with musky and leesy nuances. Oily, rich and smoky but with terrific verve and lift. Quite substantial and chewy for a young D.P. but not at all heavy. Yellow plum and strong soil tones in the middle and on the palate-staining finish….

Vinous Table: Hurricane Sandy Charity Dinner at The Modern (Jan 2014)

We start with a side-by-side comparison of Bollinger’s 2002 and 2004 Vieilles Vignes Françaises, one of my favorite Champagnes. The 2002 is spectacular, as it always is. Rich, warm and resonant, the 2002 covers the palate with seemingly endless layers of burnished, honeyed fruit and the most finessed, subtle mousse imaginable. I don’t see the…

2009 Vintage Ports (Nov 2012)

Full, deep, saturated ruby. The aromas of plum, cherry and licorice show an almost roasted ripeness. Large-scaled, superripe and verging on exotic; the wine’s huge tannins are buffered by very sweet, deep black cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. I find this port a bit blurry compared to the vintage’s best examples. Tasted three times,…