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2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is a dark, mysterious wine. Black cherry, menthol, tobacco, licorice, spice, new leather and pine meld together in a super-classic expression of Ginestra. Deep, rich and enveloping, the 2017 is so impressive in the early going. Here, too, the finesse of the tannins is remarkable.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

One of the real highlights on the Left Bank, the 2005 Mouton Rothschild is a dark, potent Pauillac. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice and leather all take shape in the glass. The 2005 is a dense, powerful and explosive wine endowed with tremendous energy and pure power. The fruit is just starting to emerge, but…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2012 Harlan Estate is bright, delicate and understated. Sweet red cherry, kirsch, mint, blood orange and mocha. Sweet red cherry, pomegranate, spice and blood orange lend vibrancy. There’s terrific energy and tension from the late-ripening vintage, and a bit more oak tannin than there is these days, but all the elements are so well…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Inky ruby. A vibrant spice- and mineral-accented bouquet evokes ripe black raspberry and blueberry, candied flowers, incense and peppery spices. Sweet, palate-staining red and blue fruit compote and violet pastille flavors are complicated by notes of cracked pepper and bitter chocolate, with a spicecake nuance gaining strength in the glass. Velvety, pliant tannins add gentle…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1997 Pichon-Baron has a light bouquet of dusty black fruit, rather leathery and missing a little definition. It has fatigued since I last tasted it. The medium-bodied palate is thin and simple, with dry tannin, and now lacks vigor toward the finish. Even in the context of a problematic vintage, this is an underwhelming…