Archives: Product Reviews

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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Bright red. Complex aromas of raspberry, smoke and pepper. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, but a bit lean following the bottling. Slightly dry tannins currently shorten the fruit, but I find this wine subtle and rather stylish.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1995 L’Evangile (aged in 42% new oak, a bit higher than average for this property): Deep ruby-purple color. Pristine, minerally, sappy, black and blue fruit nose, with a floral, violety cabernet franc aspect. Creamy-rich in the mouth, but clearly delineated and firmly structured; offers great depth of chocolatey fruit. Great persistence on the palate, with…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a perfumed nose and is rather floral in style. Traces of blue fruit and pressed iris flower combine succinctly with the red fruit. Again, there is wonderful delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s cohesive and smooth in texture, nothing weighty. The 2021 might lack density…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

A head-turning beauty, the 1996 Dom Ruinart Rosé boasts gorgeous, resonant fruit to match its considerable structure and intensity. Although quite pretty and expressive, the 1996 has enough balance to develop gracefully in bottle for years to come.

Piedmont Icons Dinner

The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is a wine I deeply regret not buying more of when it was readily available. There was no Monfortino that year, so all the fruit went into the Francia. Deep and explosive in the glass, the 2007 offers up copious dark fruit, scorched earth, gravel, tar and menthol. Broad swaths…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is just so sublime. It has a precise, characterful bouquet that instantly seduces with its pure red fruit, fennel and light undergrowth scents. The palate is so harmonious, framed by filigree tannins with a satin texture. Hints of blood orange infuse Morello cherries and strawberry fruit on the finish. Divine.