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Sitting Pretty: Oregon’s New Release Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Beyond (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Chardonnay EGW lifts with a savory blend of crushed peaches, freshly clipped mint and hints of wet stone. Opening with a pretty inner sweetness, this displays a lovely balance of ripe orchard fruits and savory minerals, all propelled by stimulating acidity and a hint of sour citrus. Long and potent, the EGW finishes…

Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Tignanello is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. The 2008 isn’t a huge or obvious Tignanello, rather it is a wine that impresses for its sublime elegance and precision. Understated layers of fruit caress the palate like cashmere in this impeccable, soft wine. There is not a hard edge to be…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Good medium red. Strawberry, coffee, rose petal and smoky oak on the nose. Sweet, ripe and plump, with aromatic flavors of plum and spicy oak. Here the nearly 100% new oak percentage (the foregoing wines get little or no new oak) adds considerable sex appeal and nicely frames the wine’s rather delicate fruit. Finishes long,…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 de Pez is a potent, brooding wine, just as it was en primeur. Black cherry, gravel, tobacco, scorched earth, chocolate and menthol all flesh out in the glass. This is a pretty rich, heady Saint-Estèphe, punctuated by huge tannins and quite a bit of heft.

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Château de Pez has a far superior bouquet than the Deuxième Vin, with blackberry and mulberry, pressed violet and then peony. The palate is medium-bodied with firm and quite saturated tannins. Fine backbone here, fresh and saline with a vibrant finish. Maybe not the most persistent Saint-Estèphe yet there is impressive weight.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Ducru-Beaucaillou just precedes their difficult period in the latter half of the decade when they suffered an infection in one of their storage houses. This is an impressive follow-up to the excellent 1982. It is very perfumed on the nose, floral with blackberry, mint, peony and melted tar mixed with freshly-rolled tobacco. The…