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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Mouton-Rothschild is extremely pure on the nose, with mineral-rich black fruit, cedar and violet scents, very delineated and focused, gaining intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, with svelte tannins, fine acidity, very smooth and harmonious, yet maybe not as complex and detailed as the very best ’16s; yet…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has another very opulent bouquet, touches of creme de menthe infusing the black fruit, just traces of pressed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, finer tannins than the Chambertin and demonstrating more integration and cohesion towards the finish. This is a classy Clos-de-Bèze that will age…

Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 2018 La Grande Dame is just as impressive as it was last year. The focus on northern and northeastern sites in Verzy and Verzenay yields a Grande Dame that impresses with notable tension and cut. Lemon peel, white flowers, chalk, mint and slate race across the palate. There’s gorgeous mineral-drenched drive here. Impeccable.

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame, in magnum, is terrific. It offers a bit more mid-palate presence than the wine from bottle. Citrus confit, orchard fruit, white flowers and spice are beautifully amplified by the big bottle. Brisk acids pull it all together on the vibrant finish. In large format, the 2015 Grande Dame is seriously…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, it impresses with its energy and focus. The 2015 packs a lot of intensity in its medium-bodied frame. Tasted after the 2012, the 2015 has a bit less body in the mid-palate but more explosive energy leading into the finish. Pear, white…

The Many Different Chiles of Chile (Mar 2020)

Don Melchor 2017 contains 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Franc, both from Maipo Alto. This earlier harvest resulted in precise, intense doses of cassis, raspberry and blackberry jam sprinkled with spices and country herbs. A young wine, the tannic structure bodes well for the future even with the moderate freshness.