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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Aromas of musky redcurrant, cherry and coffee, plus an element of spicy oak. Medicinal cherry and spice flavors show good energy but modest flesh. Some oak tannins may be accentuating the skin tannins here. Frédéric Barnier noted that vineyards on the north side of Beaune were generally more frosted (Jadot made only tiny…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

Containing 50% whole cluster, the 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru underwent a late malolactic, not finishing until September. It has a refined, menthol-tinged bouquet that feels quite complex and focused, incense aromas developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little graphite developing toward the precise, sustained finish. It needs a…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1970 Croft Vintage Port has a russet core. The nose is detailed and focused with an attractive bouquet of cooked meats, mulberry, spice and leather. It is light and feminine, although it never really develops the nuance that I was hoping for in the glass. The palate is vigorous and not quite as elegant…

Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 1989 Cristal emerges from a very warm year, one of the hottest on record until that point. It’s a vintage that favored Pinot Noir over Chardonnay, hence a blend that is heavily Pinot-leaning. I find the aromas somewhat forward today, suggesting the 1989 is peaking. Time has also started to bring out some of…

Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 1988 Cristal is just as impressive as it has always been. It’s unusual in that the blend is nearly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the result of a growing season that was much more favorable for the Chardonnays. Lemon confit, dried pear, tangerine oil, white flowers, chalk and mint all race across the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Profound nose melds raspberry, black cherry, mocha and minerals. Wonderfully silky and spherical, with monumental solidity and yet incredible inner-mouth perfume. This builds and builds toward the back, finishing with big but suave tannins and extraordinary minerally length. One of the two or three greatest wines I tasted on my spring trip to…