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Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2004 La Conseillante took a little time to settle in the glass but eventually reveals pretty red brambly fruit mixed with wild hedgerow, broom and graphite. With aeration it musters more and more precision, so decanting is advisable for this vintage. The palate is showing very well. It has a surprising structure and plenty…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Pure aromas of raspberry, violet and minerals. Suave and supple but classically dry, with an enticing floral character throughout. Very stylish, smooth wine, with tannins nicely buffered by berry fruit.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pavillon Rouge has a respectable bouquet with brambly red fruit, orange rind, freshly-rolled tobacco and peppermint. This is actually fresher than some Grand Vins tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins on the entry, raspberry, strawberry and a touch of white pepper. It has a slightly savory finish. Smooth and very drinkable….

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Currant, black raspberry, cocoa powder and graphite on the nose. Silky on entry, then impressively sweet in the middle palate, with classic Pauillac flavors of currant, chocolate and graphite dominating. This boasts the sharp focus of the vintage’s best examples but can’t quite match the 2006 for consistent ripeness and mid-palate depth. Tannins…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Wonderfully vinous and sappy for the vintage, with aromas of redcurrant, mineral and spice. Sweet, rich, lush and exotic but with good spice character giving lift to the flavors. A very fine-grained wine that will give relatively early pleasure, but it can’t match the 2004 or 2005 for backbone. Finishes dry and classic,…