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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Dom Ruinart Rosé is a joyous, radiant Rosé, a Champagne that very much captures the personality of its vintage. Rich, ample and layered, the 2009 captivates all the senses with its heady, Pinot-driven personality. The blend includes about 15% still red Pinot, lower than the 20% that was once the norm but more…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Angélus contains 60% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever, and also reflects an increasing use of wooden foudres (half the Cabernet Franc or 30% of the whole blend). It has a more understated bouquet compared to the bravura vintages of the last three years, demanding gentle coaxing to reveal scents of brambly black…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

For the first time ever, Angélus is 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot in 2021. There’s terrific density and power, especially within the context of the year. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, menthol and lavender all build nicely in the glass. The 2021 has quite a bit of richness, and its 14% alcohol, a bit lower…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lalande-Borie is dark, powerful and ample, with an extra kick of concentration and brooding power that has developed during élevage. Blackberry jam, cloves, menthol, chocolate and espresso all meld together. This is a decidedly potent Saint-Julien, with quite a bit more intensity than it showed from barrel.

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lalande-Borie has a much more backward, introspective bouquet than the Fourcas-Borie, displaying earthy, tobacco-infused black fruit that refuses to come out and play. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. Quite minerally in style, leading to a fresh finish. Allow this four or five…