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Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the most severe and angular of these wines. It will appeal most to die-hard classicists. Chalk, white pepper, mint and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this chiseled, beautifully translucent Barbaresco. As always, the Ovello needs a number of years in bottle to reveal its charms, which in 2016…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked at 41hl/ha on September 12 and bottled on May 21 and 23, 2019. Given 10–15 minutes to open, it is clearly richer on the nose compared to its petit frère, revealing hints of kirsch, red currant and orange pith and subtle loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied,…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Mondotte has a slight dustiness on the nose and is missing the same freshness as its peers. This needs more presence. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, an appealing fleshy texture and a sweet core of blood orange-infused black fruit segueing into a light chocolaty finish. Again, it needs another two…

Chile in Transition (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Clos Apalta from Apalta, Colchagua, was aged for 24 months in 90% new French barrels. Dark purple in the glass. The complex, nuanced nose offers mild notes of mint, pyrazines, ash and ripe dark fruit such as blackberry and blueberry with hints of undergrowth and tobacco, cedar and other aromas from the aging…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Brioche, dried pear, smoke, almonds, chamomile and wild herbs are all laced together in Krug’s 2000 Vintage. A wine of striking depth and resonance, the 2000 is absolutely gorgeous today. The first signs of very early tertiary complexity have begun to appear while the acidity is softening, both of which make the 2000 delicious today….