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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(LD210008): Bright gold. Pungent aromas of candied orange, buttered toast, pear skin and vanilla, with a smoky nuance that gains power in the glass. Stains the palate with intense pear liqueur, citrus pith and brioche flavors, picking up notes of licorice and candied ginger with air. A bright mineral note adds lift and energy to…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2004 La Conseillante took a little time to settle in the glass but eventually reveals pretty red brambly fruit mixed with wild hedgerow, broom and graphite. With aeration it musters more and more precision, so decanting is advisable for this vintage. The palate is showing very well. It has a surprising structure and plenty…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Aromas of red cherry, violet and licorice, complicated by mint and tobacco; cooler than the ’05 or 06 and more Burgundian in style. Suave and fresh but narrower than the subsequent vintages. Still, the tannins are ripe and easy rather than dry and the finish offers good persistence. This will make a tasty drink…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1961 Lynch Bages came from an ex-château bottle. This is clearly superior to the 1961 Pichon Baron served in tandem, with slightly rustic, ferrous red berry fruit, hints of red brick and tobacco. There is sufficient freshness and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with delicate, pretty red fruit, nothing powerful but quite refined, with…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin has a fresh nose with Golden Delicious, pear and flinty aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine depth, a little cereal-like, quite oaky and needing more delineation and tension on the finish.

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Fombrauge has quite a perfumed bouquet with red berry fruit, a splash of balsamic and Asian spice. Quite flattering in style. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannins, a fine bead of acidity, not overly-complex and the oak impedes slightly towards the finish. But a couple of years in bottle and I believe…