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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1995 Petrus is one of the finest vintages of the decade, a silver medal behind the brilliant 1998. This bottle might well constitute the best that I have encountered. It has a beautiful, focused nose with hints of game and humidor infusing the black fruit. With aeration more red fruit becomes evident, allied with…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, melted toffee, minerals and smoky oak. Explosively spicy, mulberry-flavored fruit builds and builds in the mouth. Harmonious acidity gives this extremely rich, large-scaled Petrus great balance for aging. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining length. At this early stage, I rate this wine a…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Yquem is rich, honeyed and voluptuous in the glass, but never excessively heavy. Crème brulee, candied lemon, apricot jam, orange marmalade, sweet spices and almond paste meld together in a Sauternes built on class and finesse What a gorgeous wine this is.

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Yquem is consistent with previous encounters. It has a fresh nose thanks to the contribution of the 30% Sauvignon Blanc, not as complex as other vintages, yet delineated with lemon rind and lychee hints bubbling up with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity, pure and…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2012 Masseto is an incredibly sexy wine. I can’t believe how expressive it is here. The year was mostly warm and dry, but not excessively so. Raspberry jam, mint, spice, white chocolate and sweet floral notes all race out of the glass. Sumptuous in feel, with gorgeous, open-knit fruit and soaring aromatic intensity, the…