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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 La Dominique is a wine of density and power. Inky red fruit, cedar, new leather, tobacco, holiday spice cake, mocha and torrefaction give La Dominique its heady, extroverted personality. Extraction is pushed, and there is quite a bit of oak, but it all works well. I would prefer to drink the 2005 over…

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2005 La Dominique impressed out of barrel but strangely I never encountered it again. Quite deep in appearance, it has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with ample red cherries, mulberry and allspice aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, smooth in texture with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Plum, truffle, leather, coffee and mocha on the nose. Fat, lush and sweet, with the truffley quality carrying through onto the palate. The major tannins reach the incisors. Not exactly an elegant style, but there’s plenty of material here.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a delineated bouquet, 100% whole stems lending a light pepperiness, a touch of wild mint in the background. The palate is well balanced with crunchy red fruit, lots of black pepper here with a light finish that just needs a little more density. Fine, though in such company it…

Roederer Cristal: That ’70s Show (Jun 2017)

One of the surprises in this tasting, the 1977 Cristal is shockingly beautiful. Delicate and gracious in the glass, the 1977 is a bit slow out of the gate, but then gains freshness and focus with air. Candied orange peel, hazelnut, dried flowers and dried herbs give the 1977 its striking aromatic lift. Wonderfully alive…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Opaque ruby. Heady dark berry preserve, incense, olive paste and exotic spice aromas show excellent clarity and pick up mineral and cola nuances with air. Broad, sappy and appealingly sweet, offering palate-staining black and blue fruit, violet pastille and spicecake flavors and a suggestion of candied licorice. Tightens up on the extremely persistent finish, which…