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Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

(bottled in early September of 2015; all of the 2014s were bottled before the 2015 harvest): Very backward nose hints at saline oyster shell minerality, flint, yeast and toast, complicated by a balsamic quality. Extremely dry, saline and uncompromising; by a wide margin the most difficult to taste today among Droin’s premier crus. Finishes salty…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Very pale lemon-yellow. Vibrant aromas of white peach, grapefruit, lemon and crushed stone. Bigger and sweeter than the Vaulorent, showing grand cru weight but not quite the same energy or cut as the premier cru. This very backward, saline wine communicates an impression of strong dry extract and citrus thrust. The yield here was at…

Santa Barbara: Out of Many, One (Aug 2025)

The 2022 Chardonnay is rich, cool-toned and leesy, showing honeyed apple, golden mango, toasted spice and a touch of cinnamon over a grippy spine of acid and phenolics. Beneath the voluptuous fruit lies tension and drive that keep the wine on point. It carries weight, yet everything is balanced by structure and lift.

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2007 Brut Millésime Grand Cru is soft, open-knit and quite approachable young, especially for an Egly Champagne. This is an especially pliant, supple Champagne. Dried pear, brioche, mint, chamomile, dried flowers and lightly honeyed notes resonate in the glass. In 2007, the Millésime is 100% Ambonnay fruit. Today, the 2007 gives the impression that…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

We began with the 2007 Brut Vintage from Egly-Ouriet. Without entering the cause célèbre about price hikes, this bottle did explain why it enjoys such a fanatical following. At 17 years of age, it has evolved into a quite entrancing bouquet, a little yeasty, with hints of lemon sherbet and Japanese yuzu, all delivered with…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more complex bouquet than the Meursault Charmes: dried honey, frangipane, cockle shells and light white chocolate flecks. The new oak (20%) is neatly integrated. The palate is very well-balanced with a silver bead of acidity. It does not quite match the aromatics in the mouth, perhaps…