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2009 Vintage Ports (Nov 2012)

Saturated deep ruby. Very ripe, expressive nose offers cassis, black cherry, licorice and exotic herbs. Hugely rich, thick and powerful in the context of the vintage, but with lovely purity and a saline complexity to the flavors of crushed black cherry and boysenberry. This will need some time in bottle to harmonize its brandy but…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more “aloof” bouquet. It’s Zen-like at first, with apple blossom and light, wet pavement scents. However, I would have liked more intensity. The palate is nicely balanced with deftly integrated oak. A silver bead of acidity keeps this Puligny on its tiptoes, fresh and saline so…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a brilliantly defined bouquet of tensile citrus fruit, petrichor and just a touch of dewy meadow. The fresh, taut palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, focused and saline. It tightens up toward the austere finish. There is not a huge difference between this and the Les…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Village, matured in 15% new oak, has a flint and forest floor-scented bouquet offering more vigor than the Bourgogne Blanc. The palate is fresh on the entry with a silver bead of acidity, green apple and a touch of bitter lemon, fanning out gently towards the more-ish finish.

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep purple-tinged ruby. Telltale flamboyant Bourgneuf aromas of red cherry, dark plum, fig, coriander and Oriental spices. Enters fresh, then turns sweet and dense in the middle, showing very good depth to the red and black fruit flavors. An element of stony minerality adds further complexity on the long, creamy finish. An excellent Bourgneuf: if…