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Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 2000 Ausone was tasted on no less than three occasions during March 2015, once with Pauline and Alain Vauthier. It is a great millennial Saint-Émilion with intense blackberry and cassis fruit laced with cedar and violets. Less opulent than it showed in its youth, it is a perfect marriage of Merlot and Cabernet Franc….

Sassicaia from Magnum at Vinous Icons: Italy

The 2016 Sassicaia is magnificent. Just starting to open aromatically, the 2016 is quite youthful and vigorous on the palate. Its breadth and textural intensity become increasingly apparent with a bit of time in the glass. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, dried herbs, lavender and mocha are all boldly sketched in a super-impressive Sassicaia that will reward…

Sassicaia from Magnum at Vinous Icons: Italy

The 2016 Sassicaia is magnificent. Just starting to open aromatically, the 2016 is quite youthful and vigorous on the palate. Its breadth and textural intensity become increasingly apparent with a bit of time in the glass. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, dried herbs, lavender and mocha are all boldly sketched in a super-impressive Sassicaia that will reward…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. Complex, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry and raspberry are complicated by exotic notes of Oriental spices and soy sauce. Rich, tactile and sweet, offering intense, elegant dark fruit and spice flavors lifted by a saline nuance. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering saline and smoky notes. This is deeper and fleshier than…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Haut-Brion has a really lovely, warm, autumnal nose with red fruit, chestnut, autumn leaves and Earl Grey scents. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a crisp line of acidity, maybe just a little austere on the finish, but there is fine focus with a delicately spiced, slightly medicinal finish….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Lafite-Rothschild is the best of the triumvirate that ended the decade. Another bottle vindicates that view. It shows an intense bouquet with graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with cedar aromatics that seem to effortlessly cruise as Lafite is wont to do. The palate is beautifully balanced and blossoms in the glass. The 1988 has…