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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is the famous 1.65-hectare monopole of the domaine that runs parallel to Romanée-Conti and La Romanée on the other side of the road. It has a well-defined bouquet of dark cherries, raspberry, wild hedgerow and traces of Chinese tea, developing tertiary notes after a couple of minutes in…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a simple raspberry and crushed strawberry scented nose, clean but simple. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, firm and grippy with the same drying finish exhibited by other 2016s from this vineyard. What you might call a stunted Echézeaux that is redeemed by its prettiness. Tasted blind at…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

Good full red, not darker than the regular Clos de Bèze. Suave and floral on the nose, showing pungent black pepper lift to its raspberry and mineral aromas. More luscious than the first Clos de Bèze but light on its feet, showing a wonderfully chiseled, penetrating quality and outstanding inner-mouth perfume. This struck me as…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is rather reduced and smudged on the nose, possibly with some TCA. The palate is very animally and quite bretty, to the extent that it suppresses the fruit. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, full red. Ineffable aromas of raspberry, rose petal and minerals display wonderful perfumed lift for the year. Silky, concentrated and fine-grained on entry, then sharply delineated and perfumed in the middle palate, boasting superb floral lift and an impression of menthol reserve to its black raspberry, crushed stone and botanical herb flavors. A wonderfully…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, full red. Alluring, terroir-driven aromas of raspberry, minerals, dried flowers, smoky oak and game. Supple on entry, then reticent and taut in the middle, but already showing outstanding energy and depth, not to mention a slightly musky wildness, to its flavors of raspberry, smoky oak and dried flowers. Between the wine’s firm acidity, great…