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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2005 Beychevelle has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, marmalade, cedar and light leather aromas. This is just a little rustic, yet full of vigor and presence. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. Solid and muscular, it comes across a little uncouth compared to more recent, more refined vintages, though it has…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Baron has one of the better aromatics this vintage compared to its peers, featuring mulberry and cranberry fruit, orange peel, leather and a touch of star anise. The palate is medium-bodied with furry tannins and lower acidity than the 2002, yet more freshness than in many Left Bank wines. It shows commendable depth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, mocha, tobacco, minerals, grilled meat and cigar box. Big, rich, lush and sweet; velvety but with excellent vinosity and snap. A wonderfully solid wine that finishes with huge but thoroughly ripe tannins and rising flavor. A major success in 2003, with the sheer density and richness to develop in…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good bright ruby-red. Pretty aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minerals, licorice and violet. Chewy, rich and deep, with good dense mid-palate fruit and excellent concentration. Fuller and sweeter than the Langoa. Finishes long and delineated, with powerful tannic clout and terrific mineral thrust. A serious 2006 for the cellar.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a magical wine. The aromatics alone as mesmerizing. Mocha, dried flowers, herbs and a whole range of deeply-pitched spice notes soar out of the glass. Explosive, deep and so full of character, the Cos dazzles from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out hints of rose petal, cedar…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a vintage that I have encountered several times over the years. Here, as part of a 2005 horizontal of the top Bordeaux, it mirrors previous bottles. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, scorched earth, juniper and hints of leather. More backward that its peers and clearly requiring…