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Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 1997 Coteaux du Layon is rich, creamy and so expressive. Passionfruit, coconut, orange confit, exotic floral notes, spice and butter infuse the 1997 with striking layers of dimension. This heady, luscious sweet white has so much to offer.

Marking Milestones with Moulin Touchais (Apr 2021)

Starting to take on a deep golden hue, the 1997 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon is a sensuous sweet wine (92g/L of residual sugar) that offers ripe and concentrated flavors of apricot jam, cooked oranges botrytis-derived spices (60% of the fruit was affected by botrytis, a high proportion for this wine). It is intense, rich…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

Antinori’s 100% Cabernet Franc 2011 Matarocchio is starting to give Guado al Tasso a run for its money as the best wine off the property. Expressive and beautifully delineated in the glass, the 2011 graces the palate with grilled herbs, smoke, new leather and black stone fruits. Cabernet Franc has proven to be exceptionally well-suited…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Knockout nose offers red cherry, grilled herbs, smoke, aromatic herbs and minerals. Juicy and vibrant, displaying outstanding inner-mouth perfume and energy to the red and dark fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and long, with sneaky concentration and complexity. This wine spent 18 months in 100% new oak but you really can’t tell. Yet…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano; raised in large oak vats for a year, followed by three years in small, used American oak barrels): Dark ruby. Highly fragrant scents of redcurrant, dried cherry, pipe tobacco, leather and rose oil. Lively and precise on the palate, offering deeply pitched red fruit and floral pastille flavors…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage that I have encountered a dozen or so times. Jean-Hubert Délon oversaw a magnificent wine in this year. The nose of graphite-infused black fruit is still vivacious and very complex, very Pauillac-like, and supremely well focused. Hints of licorice develop with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features sappy…