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Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the surprises in this vertical, the 1997 Salon is super-polished, delicate and refined. The 1997 offers lovely detail and nuance throughout. Hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers and white pepper add an element of brightness that complements the wine’s natural richness. Although 1997 doesn’t belong to the group of elite vintages at…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light yellow with a slow bead. Deeply perfumed nose displays waxy orchard and pit fruit scents, along with toasty lees, woodsmoke and wet stone. Weighty pear and yellow peach flavors are given a bitter edge by fruit skin and quinine qualities, picking up salty minerals on the back end. Finishes with firm grip and powerful…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 1997 Salon, tasted from the 2019 disgorgement, is fabulous. Scents of marzipan, honey, apricot jam, tangerine, spice and brioche open first, followed by touches of reduction from extended time on the lees. The 1997 is in some ways mature, and yet the recent disgorgement brings so much freshness. Today, the 1997 is peaking. It…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Bright ruby. Highly expressive aromas of raspberry, cherry, lavender, smoked meat and minerals. Racy and sharply focused, with juicy red and dark berry flavors, silky texture and a gentle candied floral quality. Impressively pure and balanced, with outstanding finishing clarity and lingering sweetness. Does this ever really finish? By no means a blockbuster, but delivers…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a strong minty bouquet that perhaps slightly overwhelms the terroir expression. I believe this comes from a high proportion of Petit Verdot (14%) that would have probably been eschewed nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with intense black plummy fruit mixed with graphite and sage. This is a…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good full medium ruby. Rather wild aromas of plum, black raspberry, lead pencil, tobacco, minerals and roasted game. Sweet, thick and complex, with very ripe, mellow flavors of black raspberry, truffle, roasted herbs, espresso and tobacco. Will rely more on its firm tannins than its rather soft, harmonious acids for longevity. This very persistent wine…