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Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er Cru offers ripe, precocious red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit on the nose, which is generous and voluminous in style. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fleshy, silky-smooth and caressing, revealing veins of blue fruit toward the peppery finish. This is very fine and oh so seductive, but…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of ample black cherry, boysenberry, crushed stone and crushed violets aromas that spring from the glass. The plush, sensual palate is full of energy, with a creamy-textured opening and veins of blueberry and cassis toward the finish. Sleek and seductive. This may well turn out to…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a precocious, exuberant nose with vibrant red fruit intermixed with orange pith, potpourri and dried herbs – complex and very well delineated. The oak is seamlessly integrated both here and on the palate. It is finely sculpted, fresh and almost minty in character for a period, before the finish…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grands Vignes Rouge 1er Cru has a well-defined, intense bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit infused with melted tar, undergrowth and light minty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, plenty of fresh red berry fruit laced with blood orange and a very lively, vivacious…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grandes Vignes 1er Cru has a superior bouquet to others from Prémeaux this season. Perfumed black cherries and cassis scents, quite focused and nicely defined. There is freshness in situ. The palate is clean and fresh with dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and bay leaf. There remains…