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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1995 Pavie (reportedly unchaptalized): Medium color. Cherry fruit suppressed by high-toned wood; notes of minerals and shellac. Fruity and fresh but on the lean side, with spicy black fruit flavor and a stony edge. A rather restrained, dryer style of Bordeaux with a structure and shape more typical of the left bank. Finishes with firm,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Léoville Poyferré is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. It has a very attractive bouquet of red fruit mixed with peppercorns, pine, cedar and orange peel, showing signs of youth at 30 years of age. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded opening and quite extravagant for…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Haut-Brion can give the ’89 a run for its money on the right day. This is intense on the nose, with blackberry, tobacco, gravel and just a light touch of camphor. It has stunning delineation and is perhaps the most mercurial ’90 First Growth at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and powerful,…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been one of the outstanding successes of the vintage alongside stablemate Talbot. This bottle is superb. Relatively youthful on the nose, it offers blackberry and mulberry fruit, veins of pressed violets, and is quite powerful with a subtle and complementary minty element. The palate is beautifully balanced with admirable…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate-staining finish. The…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild was picked September 7 to 29 at 45hL/ha and matured in 90% new oak. This is more discrete on the nose—one of the tropes of this First Growth—even when compared to the more immediate Carruades. This takes time to unfurl in the glass, slowly revealing black fruit laced with pencil box and…