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The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(Bichot owns a tiny parcel in the upper part of this grand cru and harvests it very late; vinified with one-third whole clusters and aging in one new and one one-year-old barrel): Bright, dark red. Pure aromas of raspberry, strawberry and clove, with hints of pepper and herbs from the stems. In a silky but…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton Clos de Corton Grand Cru has a very simple, introverted and earthy nose that lacks vigor, with black rather than red fruit, white pepper and Provençal herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with a very pliant entry. Harmonious, if rather low in acidity, it runs out of ideas two-thirds of the way through….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which includes 35% whole bunch, has a very composed bouquet of disarmingly pure, predominantly black fruit laced with blood orange. Very succinct. The medium-bodied palate features crunchy black fruit with traces of licorice, gaining in density toward a finish that grips gently and evolves a Morey-like structure. Just a touch of…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 La Grande Rue Grand Cru has a very pure, almost pastille-like bouquet with copious red cherry fruit mixed with crushed strawberry and a little cassis. La Grande Rue? [Post script: Bingo!] The palate is very pretty with fine-grain tannin. This is surfeit with freshness and vitality, although it does not quite have the…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru offers smudged red fruit on the nose, rather flat compared to its peers and missing tension. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, but it needs more delineation and tension towards the austere finish. There is a pleasant rondeur. I believe that there are better examples of…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is a counterpart to the domaine’s own Lavaux (under the Denis Mortet label) as part of Arnaud Mortet’s own negoçe vineyards. It matures in 75% new oak and unlike the Denis Mortet Lavaux, this includes 30 to 40% whole bunches. It has a fresh and well defined bouquet…