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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(production was down 80% of normal; just one barrel of this wine earmarked for the U.S. market): Subdued aromas of menthol and minerals. Stone fruit and menthol flavors convey an attractive creaminess. Good, serious Bourgogne with structure and length, not to mention character.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(from vines at the top of the slope): Pale straw-yellow. Musky, expressive aromas and flavors of apple and spices lifted by a mineral topnote. Plush and sweet in the mouth, conveying an impression of high-altitude energy if not particularly elevated acidity. Finishes spicy and slightly phenolic, with lingering fruit and mineral flavors enlivened by a…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1986 Cos d’Estournel replicates the performance from my 30-year on tasting that I conducted a few months back. The bouquet is attractive with mint and juniper berries that grab the attention of the olfactory senses, later accompanied by liquorice and graphite. The palate is understated on the entry but then builds in the mouth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby color. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and smoke. Dense and sweet but a tad rustic, with flavors of roasted dark fruits, chocolate and menthol. Offers a smooth texture, ripe acidity and sneaky length, but could use more precision of flavor and thrust.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, picked at 38hl/ha, has a lovely nose with scents of fireside hearth, black truffle and black pepper, plus plenty of open-knit black fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied and plush with supple tannins. Menthol notes render this a medicinal Pauillac, and in a sense, this trait occludes some of the terroir expression….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It’s tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A…