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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru matures in 75% new oak and 100% de-stemmed. It has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry and rose petals that unfurls beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannins, extremely detailed, not long in the mouth with surfeit freshness and tension, and a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark red-ruby. Distinctly wild aromas of black raspberry, crushed rock, bitter chocolate, cocoa powder and leather lifted by a spicy element. Extremely unevolved following a very late malo but already wonderfully sweet, concentrated and creamy, conveying almost painful density to its black fruit flavors. Firms up dramatically on the rocky, mineral-driven back end. Almost tough…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

From magnum, the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is perfumed on the nose, yet subtle, not disguising that it comes from a cooler growing season. Sous-bois and tobacco notes merge with dark berry fruit. Maybe it needs a little more opulence? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s mid-weight for a Grand Cru. The 2014…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

From magnum, the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is perfumed on the nose, yet subtle, not disguising that it comes from a cooler growing season. Sous-bois and tobacco notes merge with dark berry fruits. Maybe it needs a little more opulence? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This is mid-weight for a Grand Cru. It…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has perhaps the most succinct bouquet of 16 peers tasted blind, offering very discreet red and black fruit intermixed with pencil lead, sous-bois and dried orange peel. The palate is very well balanced, displaying a fine bead of acidity, traces of graphite and brown spices, filigreed tannin and…