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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Healthy full red. Compelling soil-driven scents of raspberry, coffee, underbrush and smoky minerality. Wonderfully rich, smoky and deep but also with the vintage’s sappy, floral lift to its raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors. Perhaps best today on the extremely long finish, where the tannins are refined but substantial and will still need considerable patience. A…

Alsace 2012s and Early-Released 2013s (Apr 2015)

Fairly pale gold-tinged color. Captivating aromas of lemon custard, quince, brown spices, smoke and wet stone. Highly concentrated and on the dry side, with a powerful spice character contributing to an impression of power. Conveys a tactile sense of high dry extract and finishes with chewy tannins and lingering notes of bitter orange peel and…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1988 La Conseillante displays a smudged, rustic bouquet laden with dusky, dark berried fruits, dried blood (rusty iron piping) and a touch of mocha. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, good structure with the Cabernet Franc defining the crisp finish with hints of allspice and sous-bois. Though not quite as smitten as…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Vivid ruby. Compelling aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri and blood orange, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and precise, offering palate-staining, deeply concentrated red fruit flavors that expand and gain spiciness with air. Finishes seamless and sweet, with intense lingering florality. Offers an impressive combination of depth and vivacity.

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Dark ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berry aromas and flavors are complemented by dried flowers, smoky herbs and licorice. Deep, rich and powerful but carrying no excess weight. Closes with strong punch and a persistent note of dark fruit liqueur. A deeper, more serious wine than the Croix de Bois but I prefer that wine’s…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Brilliant yellow. Intensely perfumed aromas of poached pear, orange, candied fig and jasmine take on a hint of dusty minerality. Smooth, concentrated and expansive on the palate, offering intense, mineral-tinged orchard and pit fruit flavors and a refreshing touch of bitter quinine. Finishes very long and supple, with impressive clarity and building spiciness.