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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good full red. Profound, multidimensional nose combines redcurrant, plums, raspberry, cherry, mocha and humus: really quite singular. Wonderful sweetness and depth of flavor; lush but with a firm spine. Already offers compelling inner-mouth perfume, but I suspect this wine will soon close down. Finishes with terrific length and very suave, sweet tannins that coat the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc, bottled at the beginning of September, has a perfumed, lavender-tinged bouquet that is well-defined. The palate is clean and fresh, quite rich in style with orange zest and mango notes, very fruity on the finish. Easy-drinking in style, though enjoyable too.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Auxey-Duresses Blanc, matured in 10% new oak for 11 months, has an attractive bouquet with hints of rosewater tincturing the malic fruit. Good tension here. The palate is well balanced with a smooth and quite honeyed opening, yet there is the acidity here to keep everything in balance with pleasant orange zest and…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Phélan Ségur turned out beautifully. Dark, somber notes typical of this Saint-Estèphe are present, but also attenuated by the medium-bodied structure of the year. Red cherry, gravel, incense, licorice and dried herbs fill out the layers nicely. The 2021 is a quiet Phélan Ségur, yet all the elements are nicely balanced.

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Phélan Ségur has a very appealing bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar scents, a touch of black truffle coming through with time. It conveys Saint-Estèphe typicity. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite tensile with a fine bead of acidity. It constitutes a linear and perhaps more conservative Phélan that should…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 d’Aiguilhe has a tightly wound bouquet featuring blackberry, briar and crushed stone scents. This demands some coaxing from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and sapid, with crisp tannins. This is quite a "strict," well balanced Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, with a Left Bank-like finish. It’s quite cool for the vintage, but…