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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around three-quarters whole bunches this year. It has a splendid bouquet with shimmering red fruit, crushed limestone, touches of pressed iris flower emerging with time. The palate does not deliver the opulence of the 2019 or 2020 as you would expect. This is streamlined by comparison, built around its…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 65% whole bunch. This has wonderful precision on the nose, very perfumed and floral at first though with time those scents of crushed limestone and oyster shell start percolating through. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, pitch-perfect acidity, bursting of energy and tension with a judicious…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimension. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy, with…

2020 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha develop later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimensions. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy,…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo is incredibly impressive. Rich, ample and wonderfully seductive, the 2017 hits all the right notes. Succulent dark cherry, plum, licorice, spice and menthol flesh out as this super-expressive, inviting Barolo shows off its considerable charms. Fenocchio’s straight Barolo stands out in its peer group in 2017. Readers looking for an affordable Barolo…