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New Releases: Ridge, Rhys and Centennial Mountain (Oct 2025)

The 2022 Monte Bello feels like a cooler-vintage wine, defying all expectations of the torrid growing season. Juicy, fresh and very old school, the 2022 sashays with true elegance as it unfurls into classic layers of cedar box, tobacco, grilled herbs, tart cherry and crushed rocks. A return to a more typical percentage of Cabernet…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Vivid ruby. Expansive red and blue fruit preserve, tobacco, potpourri, spice and botanical herb aromas, with vanilla and smoky mineral notes emerging as the wine opens up. Sappy, penetrating and gently chewy on the palate, offering vibrant, mineral- and spice-accented black raspberry, bitter cherry and rose pastille flavors that deepen and turn sweeter on the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cissac has a generous, fruit-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with violet and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a potent marine/seaweed-influenced opening, tangy in the mouth with an iodine finish. This conveys a lot of personality. A fine Cissac that should give 12–15 years of drinking…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is a little more closed on the nose than the other cuvées, eventually revealing red currant, cranberry and raspberry fruit laced with sous-bois and autumn leaf aromas. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and good depth. The finish needs to show a little more…

La Paulée de New York (Mar 2007)

Rousseau’s 1988 Charmes-Chambertin was superb. Deeply expressive, it blossomed on the palate with endless layers of flavor, stunning balance, and a note of sweetness on the long, lingering finish.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru is superb. We are in Vosne. Aromatically in a different register from the Corton that precedes it in this tasting, the Cuvée Duvault-Blochet is all sensuality, all class. Rose petal, mint, crushed flowers and dried herbs open first, leading to a chiseled core of fruit. Nervy and light…