Archives: Product Reviews

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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(91% cabernet sauvignon, 8.5% merlot, 0.5% petit verdot; 38% of the total crop went into the grand vin; 40 hectoliters per hectare produced): Dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose combines blackberry, black cherry, minerals, violet, spices and cedar. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, offering clean flavors of dark berries, graphite and cedar but not the flesh…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Tasted blind, the 2012 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage I have not tasted for several years. It has a well-defined nose with slightly leafy black fruit, pencil shavings and cedar. It does not quite deliver the precision of the 2012 Latour tasted alongside, but it is distinctly “Lafite”. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, well…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1984 La Mission Haut-Brion displays a deep garnet core and light bricking on the rim. The nose, like many 1984s, lacks amplitude and vigor; it’s a little confected and reveals light scents of dried blood and bell pepper. The palate is a bit staid, offering light tobacco-tinged red fruit and a simple, dry finish….

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(est. 700-$900) Medium red. Aromas of red cherry and Oriental spices, with a liqueur-like aspect. Sweet, aromatic and penetrating, with lovely acidity giving shape and life to the silky, slowly mounting flavors. In a distinctly feminine style, and more expressive in the mouth today than the Grands-Echezeaux. A supple, suave, sappy wine with a light…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good full red. Pretty, nuanced aromas of red fruits, flowers and tobacco. Wonderfully tactile and juicy, with terrific acid cut giving grip to the sappy red berry and saline flavors. Finishes with sweet tannins and lovely lingering perfume. This struck me as exuberant and expansive for a grand cru from this year-and that’s hardly a…