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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Wild strawberry, smoked meat and a whiff of leather on the nose. Lush on entry, then juicy, tight and youthfully imploded in the middle, with firm minerality supporting the sappy raspberry and crushed cherry flavors. Showing less middle-palate texture today than the Cerretta, almost certainly due to a recent racking and sulfiting….

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1989 Petrus is consistent with previous bottles in the sense that it represents the apotheosis of not only the vineyard, but of Pomerol itself. It still provides that almost surreal cornucopia of aromas, red fruit melted with tar, tobacco, hints of camphor and ash, all delivered with astonishing precision. The palate is perfectly balanced,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Flamboyant aromas of red berry liqueur, earth, truffle and exotic woodsmoke. Hugely sweet and fat, with great ripeness and opulence and marvelous chewy depth. Finishes with huge but ripe tongue-dusting tannins and fabulous persistence. Drink 2005 to 2025.

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is just starting to drink well. Fresh and mineral, the 2011 also looks to have plenty of life ahead of it. Chalk, lemon confit and white flowers all grace this open-knit, curvy Charlemagne. The 2011 has really softened in recent years. Time in the glass brings out the layers in…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was served blind at a dinner in Bordeaux. This has always been a fine vintage from the estate, although it has lost a little vigor since my last encounter. The nose is quite strict, offering scents of lemon verbena, red apples and a touch of orange pith, and not as…