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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Lafite-Rothschild was impressive from barrel. It is very composed on the nose with brambly red fruit, loam, touches of sous-bois (decayed autumn leaves). After five minutes, there is a noticeable liquorice scent. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, a little soft in the middle with a fleshy tarry, liquorice-infused finish that just…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good full ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Highly expressive aromas of blackberry, crushed strawberry, flint, cedar, pepper and herbs. Rich and bright in the mouth, with pungent minerality and a cedary note keeping the dark and red fruit flavors fresh. The long finish features lovely floral lift and substantial but ripe tannins. This strikes…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Fleur-Pétrus does not quite compete with the 2010 Gazin on the nose. It is more low-key than expected with brambly red fruit, loamy soil, wild heather and bay leaf scents, but it just lacks a little intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. This feels well balanced and poised, a more…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright red-ruby. Very fresh, highly scented nose combines cherry, raspberry, flowers, crushed stone, tobacco and underbrush; this could only be Pomerol. Fat, ripe and extremely deep but with uncanny precision and peppery lift to its vibrant flavors of cherry, raspberry, black tea and stony minerality. A Pomerol of great energy and refinement, finishing with…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, violet and flint. Round, silky and broad, with lovely sweetness and perfume to its black fruit and mineral flavors. A big, perfumed, very long Lafleur-Petrus that finishes with fine, rising tannins and a lingering floral aftertaste. One of the best young showings ever for Lafleur-Petrus; this wine…

Vinous Table: Planque, London, UK (Jul 2023)

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has the unenviable task of following the 1990 and does with some chutzpah. A cornucopia of scents: brambly red fruit, Kalamata olives, black pepper, Seville orange marmalade and fresh-picked fennel. Whereas the 1990 has reached its aromatic peak, you feel as if this has more in reserve. The palate is medium-bodied with…