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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2003 Lafleur now sports a slightly muted, rather one-dimensional bouquet, that on this occasion is shown up by the superior and more vigorous 2001 Lafleur. Dark berry fruit, hints of cola intermingle with sandalwood and sage on the nose. The palate is full-bodied for this Pomerol with supple tannin, quite grippy in the mouth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Full ruby-red color. Ripe, smoky aromas of raspberry, plum, milk chocolate and spices; almost confectionery. Plump, round and impressively full, with slightly medicinal flavors. Tasted after the Trotanoy, this came off as less harmonious and vibrant, but fatter and fuller in the middle palate. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and very good chocolatey persistence. Some…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Palmer is a vintage that I have tasted several times, though Thomas Duroux lamented that he has very few bottles left at the property. The lovely bouquet of red berry fruit, dark chocolate, star anise and light iodine aromas gently unfolds from the glass, displaying a little more complexity than the 2001 Château…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Dark red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, dark plum, tobacco, graphite, minerals and flowers. Very suave and smooth on entry, then a bit closed in the middle palate. But this very young, firm Palmer boasts harmonious acidity, very good cut and excellent balance. Finishes with rather tight tannins that will need six or seven years…