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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Haut-Brion is beginning to flex its muscles. The bouquet is perhaps one of the most backward of the five First Growths, the Merlot firmly in the driving seat. Blackcurrant mixes with pitted black olives and cedar, and light sous-bois scents percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, very good…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

After a first bottle was slightly oxidized, a second bottle of the 2012 Haut-Brion was opened. This has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco aromas that unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, the most austere of the First Growths, yet fresh as a daisy with impressive…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(77% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 5.3 g/; total acidity; 13.1% alcohol): Garnet-tinged dark red. Aromatic nose displays a floral, delicately spicy quality to its red fruit, shoe polish, cedar and tobacco aromas. More red fruits in the mouth, with mineral and loamy nuances on the linear, moderately persistent…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Red-ruby. Evolving aromas of game, leather and coffee. Fat, sweet and easygoing. Finishes with suave tannins. Offers plenty of early appeal.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1997 Lynch-Bages shows some degradation on the bricked rim. The bouquet is open-knit, fully mature with ferrous, undergrowth, leafy/autumnal scents. It’s missing some fruit intensity, as you expect from a more challenging season. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, crisp black fruit laced with orange rind, black pepper, cedar and tobacco. This shows…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Silvery gold color, with a very fine mousse. Absolutely stunning aromatics: pungent iodine, oyster shell, oatmeal, toasted wheat and bitter lemon. This smells like top-notch Chevalier-Montrachet from a great vintage. Broad and deep but also very fresh and bright, with suave, toasty citrus and smoke flavors accented by exotic spices. This expands impressively on the…