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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Poujeaux has a high-toned bouquet with more blue fruit than its peers. Perhaps it was picked a day or two tardy given the lack of definition compared to others. The palate is medium-bodied with a chewy opening, plenty of tarry black fruit but it feels over-extracted on the finish. This has shown well…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(50% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 5% each petit verdot and cabernet franc): Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, graphite and smoky oak aromas are lifted by a floral element. Broad, rich and enveloping, with a restrained sweetness to the pliant flavors of dark berries, spices and graphite. Layered, minerally and long, with firm, building tannins coating…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Purple ruby. Highly complex, precise nose of red cherry, dark plum, black pepper and wet stone is complicated by cinnamon and clove. Deep and pure on entry, showing an easygoing, approachable charm and very good clarity to its ripe red and black fruit flavors. With its harmonious acidity and fine-grained tannins, this dense wine comes…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Toffee, earth and white chocolate on the nose, plus a strong suggestion of terroir. Concentrated and very rich, with a deep note of beurre blanc and a strong lemony flavor. The acidity carries the flavors through to a long, slightly sweet/sour finish. Like the ’83, this wine is impressively endowed but comes across as somewhat…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village comes from several parcels and sees 30% new oak. It displays darker fruit than the Nuits Saint-Georges, all well defined and precise and displaying fine mineralité. The palate is very well structured, offering more depth and grip. The detailed, almost honeyed finish at present disguises the terroir expression.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

My sample of the 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Village contained no new oak, but there will be 15% in the final blend. It has an effervescent nose that seems to spring from the glass with its ebullient red cherries and wild strawberry. The palate is full of crunchy red fruit laced with citrus peel, fine tension with…