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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2003 Beychevelle has a rather one-dimensional nose with vestiges of red fruit, singed leather and hung game (though I don’t find this bretty like some earlier vintages). The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, again, quite gamey and low in acidity. A bit Rhône-like towards the finish, this is a decent 2003 that is…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Brion has long been a favourite vintage of mine and consumed with pleasure several times. Now at 20-years of age I feel it is one step ahead of the 1998 La Mission: there is great fruit intensity with almost precocious blackberry, raspberry coulis, pastilles, tobacco and hints of olive. It has exquisite…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at plum, roast coffee, leather, grilled nuts, tobacco and earth. A bit reticent today but already offers an uncanny amalgamation of density and vinosity. A very suave, subtle wine that finishes with creamy, sweet tannins and terrific grip and length. Was there a more consistently outstanding first…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1989 Talbot has fine attack on the nose: red cherries, bergamot tea and pressed rose petals developing from the glass, maybe they just miss the cohesion and sophistication of the 1986. The palate is medium-bodied with rather harsh, edgy tannin. Notes of black tea and tobacco infused the red fruit with a grainy -textured…