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Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis, of which one parcel was 80% hit by frost, has a very composed and quite intense bouquet with citrus lemon, Granny Smith apples and light smoky scents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with good tension, a clear step up from the Petit Chablis with a vibrant, spicy finish. Excellent.

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is more open on the nose than Les Preuses, more floral with citrus peel and orange blossom aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, lightly spiced, quite cohesive but maybe the Les Preuses shows a little more sophistication towards the finish. This should evolve into a…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru conveys something sedate on the nose, not lacking in energy or tension, but quite refined and not needing to show off. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit laced with white pepper on the entry, orange rind and marmalade, though it scarpers out the door a bit…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a light, tertiary bouquet that is very ephemeral, as if a light draught could blow the aromatics away. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins that frame tart red fruit. Quite peppery in style though there is not much weight and grip on the finish at…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 La Grande Rue Grand Cru comes from the famed 1.65-hectare monopole of Lamarche on the other side of the lane from Romanée-Conti. It has another light, airy nose, red cherries and a touch of tertiary scents, missing some of the vigour the 2020 exuded last year. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lovely dark plummy bouquet, kirsch and a touch of liquorice, perhaps a little sur-maturité. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, black cherries, hints of peppermint with a cassis finish. Maybe this just doesn’t quite deliver the persistency that I anticipated when I…