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The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2009 Dom Ruinart Rosé is a very pretty, understated Champagne. Bright red fruit, blood orange, mint, rose petal, dried flowers and cinnamon are nicely lifted. This is an especially quiet, subtle Rosé, especially for the year. The blend is 85% Chardonnay, mostly from Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs (Cramant, Avize, Chouilly, Mesnil-sur-Oger)…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2009 Dom Ruinart Rosé is a very pretty, understated Champagne. Bright red fruit, blood orange, mint, rose petal, dried flowers and cinnamon are nicely lifted. This is an especially quiet, subtle Rosé, especially for the year. The blend is 85% Chardonnay, mostly from Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs (Cramant, Avize, Chouilly, Mesnil-sur-Oger)…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Vega-Sicilia’s 1990 Unico (magnum) is off the charts. Powerful yet also sensual, the 1990 impresses for its depth and allure. A host of dark red cherry, plum and smoke nuanced finish support the veins of underlying acidity that give the wine its freshness and tension, while the explosive finish leaves everyone speechless. Until the 1982…

The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Explosive, warm aromas of redcurrant, black plum, chestnut, tobacco and spice; mellow oak notes. Lush, dense and solidly structured; shows a distinctly more mineral character than the Valbuena and less pliant, drier flavors. Sound acidity contributes to the impression of backbone and thrust. Finishes with slightly dry tannins.

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

The 1970 is the most subtle of these Unicos, although I have tasted fresher examples. Delicate and perfumed throughout, the 1970 is laced with the essence of crushed flowers, tobacco, dried cherries and mint.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(51% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot, 3% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc) Medium-deep ruby. Classic Medoc nose of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar is presently a little closed. Enters the mouth full and silky, with bright blackberry and plum flavors and fine-grained tannins. Finishes moderately long and very clean, though just a touch warm.