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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good medium ruby. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of cassis and chocolate, lifted by cedar and minerals. Then more dark berries and minerals in the mouth, complicated by a candied violet nuance. Not particularly large-scaled in what is a generally exotic, very ripe vintage, but intensely flavored and very well delineated, offering an enticing…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep red-ruby. Herbal blackberry, licorice and gunflint on the nose. Slightly medicinal flavors of dark fruits and licorice show moderate fruit intensity but complex mineral, graphite and cedar elements. The moderately sweet, ripe finish is kept fresh by firm, ripe tannins and juicy acidity. Seems sweeter and sappier than when I tasted it at…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(52% merlot, 36% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14.4% alcohol) Deep ruby. Pungent aromas of black cherry, licorice and mint. Juicy and tightly wound, showing a very austere personality today, with a medicinal black cherry flavor complicated by camphor, tobacco leaf and minerals. Finishes long but with mounting, tough tannins that…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Floral aromas of apple, pear blossom, mint and marzipan. Big, lush and rich in the mouth, with perfumed notes of pear blossom and white rose. Displays the tactile quality and creamy middle shown by the better wines from this very rich vintage. Fat and strong in extract. Finishes firm and rather powerful, with an edge…