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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2017 Yquem is destined to be one of my favourite recent vintages. It has brilliant delineation on the nose with acacia honey, saffron, white flowers and a subtle crushed stone element. So much energy is palpable. The palate is supremely well balanced, surfeit with energy, spicy and feisty and yet paradoxically beautifully controlled and…

2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)

A wine of almost shocking, raw power, the 2017 d’Yquem possesses tremendous depth and intensity. I expect the 2017 is going to need many years to be at its best, but is also likely to remain exuberant and a bit unruly. I don’t see the quiet sophistication of the 2015, or the energy of the…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Yquem has a more “serious” bouquet than many other Sauternes, more nuanced with dried honey, lanolin, saffron and beeswax. The palate is exquisite, quite intense with pure botrytised fruit, just a patina of extant oak, yet real depth and enormous length. Marvellous, even if I would not place the 2016 in the top…

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 d’Yquem is a magical wine. It also looks like an Yquem that will drink well right out of the gate. Like so many of the better wines in this vintage, it manages to express richness while avoiding excess heaviness. Pineapple, orange marmalade, exotic flowers and spice all blossom in the glass. There is…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 d’Yquem is a wine of restraint above all else. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot jam, graphite and almond are some of the many threads in a rich fabric that envelops all the senses. A wine of contrasts, the 2014 is at times delicate, while in other moments it is more powerful. Although striking,…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2014 Yquem was picked over four tries from 5 September to 30 October, a nine-week picking with 25% of the crop brought in before 25 September to obtain freshness. It has beautifully defined on the nose with dried honey, white peach, almond and chamomile and saffron emerging with time. The palate is beautifully balanced…