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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of plum, leather, meat and tobacco, plus a dusty hint of old oak. Supple on entry, then a bit dry in the middle, with slightly spiky acidity. A fully mature wine with modest density. Somewhat dry-edged finish.

Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

(14% alcohol; bottled in April): Reticent aromas of peach and flowers. A sweet, supple, pliant wine with a lovely sugar/acid balance for early drinking. Acacia flower and hawthorn notes carry through onto the palate. The 3.7 g/l residual sugar is mostly a function of the vintage but helps to buffer the wine’s alcohol. Awfully easy…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Quite closed on the nose, hinting at flowers and toast. Leanish, precise and tightly wound, with terrific focus to the citrus, floral and mineral flavors. This really leaves the salivary glands vibrating on the long finish. Very firm but not hard. If this was acidified, it has been done very cleverly. Wonderfully fresh and delineated…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

(70% tempranillo, 20% garnacha and the rest mazuelo and graciano) Bright ruby. Vibrant, seductive perfume of black raspberry, powdered rose, anise and minerals. Weighty but lively cherry and dark berry flavors are brightened by zesty minerals, picking up a candied licorice quality with aeration. The finish repeats the deep dark berry note and leaves exotic…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Fairly pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, licorice, and fresh herbs, plus a petrolly riesling-like pungency. Moderately thick, racy and stylish, with flavors similar to the aromas. Very youthful and given clarity by sound acidity. The petrol note carries through to the long, bright aftertaste. Very ’88, and very Barsac.

Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

The infamous 1981 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château de Beaucastel is certainly not the most bretty example that I have encountered, maybe just a little tired on the nose compared to the 1978 Télégraphe. The palate is much better with roasted chestnut and game infusing the leather black fruit and displaying tremendous depth on the finish. Bottles…