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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 1.5% cabernet franc and 1.5% petit verdot; 71IPT; from a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare; 13.5% alcohol; a roughly 38% selection) Good, full, dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose offers red fruits, sweet spices, dried bay leaf, soy sauce and an intense saline note. Large-scaled and powerful, with a distinctly salty,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux has a fleshy, almost animally bouquet with roasted chestnuts and ash infusing the red fruit, a touch of wild mint and garrigues in the background. This feels more forward than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and fleshy with a smorgasbord of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux performed far better at this horizontal than at Farr's blind tasting a few days later. It has a beguiling bouquet, highly perfumed with crushed violets infusing the blackberry and crushed strawberry scented, hints of pencil box and cedar emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 1999 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Vinothèque is a powerful, vibrant Champagne that has aged impeccably. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, mint, spice and chamomile abound. Time in the glass releases gorgeous inner sweetness, while a touch of reduction adds freshness and vibrancy to balance things out. The 1999 has been exceptional in two recent…

Vinous Table: Chez Bruce, London, UK (Aug 2019)

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Moderately saturated ruby-red. More merlot-dominated aromas of raspberry, plum, espresso, mocha and game. Silky, lush and thick, with compelling flavors of boysenberry, bitter cherry and dark chocolate. Complex, smoky, lively wine, finishing with strong torrefaction notes and lovely subtle persistence. The merlot component here goes through…