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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Intensely aromatic nose offers a complex bouquet of smoky orchard and pit fruit aromas, along with exotic orange zest and white pepper. Deep and chewy, displaying impressively concentrated but brisk pear and bitter citrus pith flavors and an undercurrent of buttery brioche and lees. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and a subtle anise quality….

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 1981 Collection (Magnum) has begun to slowly enter a plateau of maturity marked by slightly oxidative, tertiary notes that give the wine its burnished, resonant personality. Open-knit and creamy on the palate, the 1981 is an ideal wine for current drinking, as it is not likely to improve much from here. Stone fruit, vanilla,…

Focus on the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2010)

(14% alcohol) Fully saturated inky ruby. Knockout nose of blackcurrant, mocha, coffee and nutty oak, plus strong soil tones of tobacco and herbs. Wonderfully ripe and full but with a sappy menthol lift to the utterly pure, drop-dead gorgeous flavors of blackcurrant, tobacco and minerals. Compared to the 2007 Tignanello, which currently comes across as…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

The 2007 Solaia (magnum) captures all the exotic richness of the year in its luscious, racy personality. Raspberry jam, spice and white chocolate give the 2007 its decidedly flamboyant feel. There is not much subtlety here, but the 2007 offers tons of immediacy in a flashy style that is hard to resist. It is one…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Le Petit Mouton has a more open-knit bouquet than its peers, perhaps more red than black fruit, hints of sage and cedar emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, touches of graphite and cedar coming through, developing more depth and grip towards the finish. This is a beautifully balanced and…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Le Petit Mouton has a lovely bouquet with well defined raspberry and wild strawberry aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, quite sensual at ten-years of age with a very harmonious, almost plush finish that I did not anticipate. The insider’s choice?…