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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Trentino & Alto Adige: The Sky’s the Limit (Jun 2022)

Another year in bottle has added unexpected depths and dimension to the 2016 San Leonardo. It wafts up with an alluring bouquet of smoky black currant and plum skins, complicated by savory herbs, hints of white pepper and fresh tobacco. It’s hard chiseled edges have formed into smooth contours now, velvety yet youthfully dense, washing…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

Deep, dark and sensual, the 2016 Tenuta San Leonardo lifts from the glass with an alluring mix of crushed blackberry and plum. With time it blossoms further to reveal tobacco, brown spice, white smoke and peppery florals. It's velvety and wonderfully textural, yet also energized by a complex mix of stimulating acids and minerals, giving…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Saturated ruby. Ripe, smoke- and spice-accented cherry, dark berry, licorice and floral qualities on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sweet cherry preserve and blackberry flavors that take on baking spice, vanilla and candied lavender accents as the wine stretches out. Shows very good depth as well as energy and finishes long and…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Dark red. A sexy hint of woodsmoke complements sweet scents of cherry liqueur and purple berries. Tight-grained and fine, but with terrific inner-mouth lift to its dark berry, spice and violet flavors. Wonderfully juicy, lively wine with a light touch. Not a fleshy powerhouse, and not showing the obvious mineral structure today of the Ruchottes-Chambertin,…