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2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Good bright ruby-red. Rather backward nose hints at cassis, black cherry, shoe polish, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, but with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather full-bodied middle palate. The wine’s cassis fruit is complicated by an almost decadent floral element. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple,…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

Surprisingly, the 2007 Latour has a bolder and more outgoing bouquet than other vintages from this era, adorned with plush blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, slightly more floral than its peers. There’s a fine definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well balanced, although not the most complex in the line-up. It…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been one of the outstanding successes of the vintage alongside stablemate Talbot. This bottle is superb. Relatively youthful on the nose, it offers blackberry and mulberry fruit, veins of pressed violets, and is quite powerful with a subtle and complementary minty element. The palate is beautifully balanced with admirable…

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is better than I expected. It shows the medium-bodied structure of the year, with a compelling inner perfume that adds an exotic, sensual flair. Red cherry, kirsch, white flower and mint build effortlessly, all framed by ripe tannins that add to an impression of finesse.

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Toscana Sangiovese was released after Soldera lost most of the 2007-2012 vintages. It is essentially another cask, separate from what was released as the Brunello Riserva. Delicate and hauntingly aromatic, the 2006 is a gorgeous, understated wine. Hints of dark cherry, cinnamon and rose petals open gracefully. There’s a good bit of power,…

Vinous Table: An Unforgettable Charity Dinner at Saison (Dec 2018)

Gianfranco Soldera’s 2006 Sangiovese is the last cask released during a tumultuous period for the estate that saw six vintages of wine in oak destroyed by a disgruntled former employee. Soldera first released his 2006 as a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, but became so infuriated with his colleague producers in the aftermath of the loss…