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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux was the first vintage that touched 14% alcohol, and apparently the late Paul Pontallier was pessimistic about its prospect. It has a lovely nose with savoury red fruit and brown spices, a little ferrous in style but certainly fresh and enticing. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very…Mouton. The palate sprints out…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very…Mouton. The palate sprints out…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Violette is superb. Silky and expressive, with fabulous aromatic presence, La Violette is all finesse. Inky blue/purplish fruit tones open into hints of sweet tobacco, new leather and licorice. The 2015 is at once supple and also light on its feet, with superb balance and an inviting personality that will be virtually…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Violette has a compact, minty bouquet with vivacious red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, marmalade and a touch of smoke. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and menthol-tinged black fruit. Its saccharine finish mellows after ten minutes, mustering more freshness and tension. Yet it is still way below how this Pomerol…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Piquant aromas of citrus fruits, white flowers and minerals. Dense, sappy and quite concentrated, showing terrific inner-mouth lift to its flavors of anise, flowers and crushed rock. Finishes with superb lift and length. Should make a lovely bottle.