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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Yquem has a potent nose with yellow plum, tangerine, peach and honey, exuberant and with plenty of botrytis. There is a real presence in this wine. The palate is well balanced with an unctuous entry and a keen thread of acidity, effervescent with blood orange, white peaches and pineapple toward the finish. Very…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée comes from the south of the appellation on gravel and limestone soils, including 30% whole bunches and 20% new oak. This has more red berry fruit on the nose, fine mineralité and transparency. The medium-bodied palate has fine tannins and much more depth and cohesion than the 2021, with allspice…

Quinta do Noval: Recent Vintages 2011-2020 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Vintage Port from Noval, picked from 5 September, has a really lovely bouquet with black plum and cassis fruit, still with that faint tincture of fireside hearth, concentrated and supremely well focused. This is the most “vinous” recent vintage insofar that it veers away from a fortified wine, perhaps with less VA than…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru takes time to get going but is worth the wait, offering vivid red fruit, forest floor, tobacco and light oyster shell aromas. The palate is very refined on the entry, underpinned by a fine bead of acidity. Harmonious and quite persistent, with a paradoxically powerful finish full of finesse. Gorgeous.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has a tight-lipped bouquet that demands coaxing from the glass; the 80% whole bunches imparts captivating undergrowth/damp moss aromas that filter through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and quite dense, with grippy tannin and a light espresso note. I find the Mazis-Chambertin has a little more grace on…

2011 and 2010 Alsace Wines (Nov 2012)

Pale straw-green. Minty green apple, jasmine and minerals on the enticing nose. Bright flavors of green apple and ripe citrus fruits are joined by stone fruits and minerals on the long finish. Has enough acidity to maintain clarity and cut. According to Pierre Trimbach, this is on a par with other great recent vintages for…