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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

A wine of sublime elegance and finesse, the 2017 Cheval Blanc is endowed with tremendous energy, precision and cut. Red/purplish fruit, mint, sage, blood orange, star anise and exotic spice notes abound in a mid-weight, finely cut Cheval that dazzles with its energy. Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet gave the 2017 26-27 days on skins. Because…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Cheval Blanc contains more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual due to the reconfiguration of the blend after frost. Pierre Lurton and his team took the bold decision to express the growing season rather than the classic Cheval Blanc blend. It has a crisp blackcurrant and bilberry scented bouquet with touches of mint and cedar,…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron has developed into a potent wine, even by its own standards. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, grilled herbs, licorice, new leather and spice all flesh out in a succulent Pauillac that shows the racier personality of the year. In the glass, Pichon is dark, racy and sumptuous as it so often is, with…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron was picked from 18 September with the Merlot, finishing on 3 October with the Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 80% new oak for 20 months. It has a crisp, precise and tightly wound bouquet, although the aromatics feel a little reticent. Likewise, the tannins are a little conspicuous at this precise moment. They…