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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromas of black cherry, minerals and graphite. Sweet and harmonious, with impressive vivacity and purity of flavor for ’99. Strong mineral and graphite notes contribute complexity. Not overly fleshy but fresh and sharply delineated, with excellent intensity. A very sophisticated wine, showing well today.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1999 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have found perplexing in the past, and the last time I was unable to give a score. Returning again, I find the nose a little diluted with light black fruit, a touch of brine and sea salt, but oddly it reminds me of the 2013. The palate…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been a more consistent performer compared to the 1990 over the years. It has an open, leafy bouquet with forest floor, morels, truffle and smoke, not complex and with brettanomyces becoming evident. The palate is medium-bodied with sour cherry and quite dry tannins. There is decent body here, although there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou has always been a difficult wine to love, and this replicates its previous two showings. Readers should note that this came directly from the property and was assured to be unaffected by the taint that afflicted much of the production at this time. Yet there is still a sense of dumbness on…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some bricking on the rim, although the core remains quite dark. This has an attractive bouquet with lovely tobacco-infused black fruit and touches of black truffle and morels. There is something very gentle here but also intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity,…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Explosive if idiosyncratic aromas of tobacco, pepper, black olive, mocha and hot stones. Pungent and penetrating, with compelling flavors of raspberry, tobacco, black olive, dried rose, mocha, herbs and spices, plus a strong underlying minerality (I was variously reminded of Lafite, Haut-Brion and Ausone!). Suave and perfumed in the mouth; wonderfully ripe but…