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1999 and 1998 White Burgundies (Sep 2000)

Highly aromatic, steely nose of nut skin, lemon, licorice and spicy oak. Pure and precise in the mouth, with excellent flavor intensity and sound supporting acidity. Rather backward for a ’98. Finishes very dry and long, with a faint note of earth.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good bright, deep red. Complex, pure aromas of tangy raspberry, cherry, smoked meat and flowers. Plush on entry, then fat and sweet in the middle, showing a smokier quality than the Latricieres and conveying a less-primary impression of higher pH. In a more feminine style, and yet the dusty tannins show a slight toughness.

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)

Bright pale yellow. Reticent aromas of menthol, fresh-cut hay and minerals, with primary fruits in the deep background. Bright and saline in the mouth, with good energy and minerality to the dried fruit, honey and brioche flavors. Plenty of energy here but the salty finish will require patience. For his part, Mangenot believes that most…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good deep red. A touch of reduction to the aromas of black fruits, smoked meat and minerals; interestingly, this was less high-pitched than the 2009 samples I tasted before it. Then large-scaled, rich and saline; chewy but not a sweet style–or is it simply closed today? Firm acidity carries the wine’s explosive fruit through a…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)

Crushed rocks, oyster shells, lemon and nectarine all take shape in the glass in the 2010 Chablis Vaillons. A touch of French oak adds richness and volume, but without being too overwhelming or obscuring the wine’s intense, pointed personality.

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(I tasted a sample taken from barrel in August, shortly before the bottling): Good full yellow. Big, ripe aromas of lemon oil, smoke, hazelnut and vanillin oak. Opulent, mouthfilling and seamless, with serious depth to its flavors of mirabelle, fresh peach and spices. Finishes long and aromatic, with palate-staining flavors of peach oil and spicy…