Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good deep red. A touch of reduction to the aromas of black fruits, smoked meat and minerals; interestingly, this was less high-pitched than the 2009 samples I tasted before it. Then large-scaled, rich and saline; chewy but not a sweet style–or is it simply closed today? Firm acidity carries the wine’s explosive fruit through a…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)

Crushed rocks, oyster shells, lemon and nectarine all take shape in the glass in the 2010 Chablis Vaillons. A touch of French oak adds richness and volume, but without being too overwhelming or obscuring the wine’s intense, pointed personality.

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(I tasted a sample taken from barrel in August, shortly before the bottling): Good full yellow. Big, ripe aromas of lemon oil, smoke, hazelnut and vanillin oak. Opulent, mouthfilling and seamless, with serious depth to its flavors of mirabelle, fresh peach and spices. Finishes long and aromatic, with palate-staining flavors of peach oil and spicy…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Aromas of black raspberry, rose petal and menthol show an almost liqueur-like ripeness. Then wonderfully sappy and vinous in the mouth, with a powerful crushed stone element giving punch to the creamy mid-palate. This is in the style of Potel’s Lavaux Saint-Jaques, offering outstanding precision and class and a powerful impression…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Dark, deep, bright red. Very closed, brooding nose suggests cassis and black cherry. Then surprisingly silky and seamless on the palate, with lovely inner-mouth energy and saline minerality to the red fruit and floral flavors. Really mounts in sweetness on the tactile, expansive peacock’s tail of a finish without any loss of shape. In fact,…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(true Charmes): Deep, bright red. Dark berries, licorice and violet on the perfumed nose, with a hint of exotic oak. Sappy, chewy and concentrated, showing excellent energy and a weighless impression to the flavors of dark berries, flowers and saline minerality. Distinctly sweeter and more pliant than the Clos Vougeot from Maison Roche de Bellene…