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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Pichon Baron underwent an early picking with relatively low yields. A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, it has a very tight nose at first that demands 15–20 minute coaxing in the glass. It eventually reveals enticing blackberries, blueberries and hints of balsamic and undergrowth, all very precise; crushed rock scents…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Medium color. Expressive black cherry, coffee and resin aromas. Quite closed in the mouth; has good intensity along with a faint tartness. Tannins seem a little dry. Not obviously better than the ’94 tasted a year ago.

An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports (Jun 2019)

The 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port was picked from August 28 at Malvedos, though production is one-third less than the previous year. Here the Touriga Franca was particularly early ripening. It has an expressive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, fig jam, dates and touches of clove, aromatics that are very seductive if perhaps…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva blossoms in the glass in a display of understated power mixed with purity. This unfolds more like a whisper than a shout, wafting up with a delicate bouquet of fresh violets, lavender and a dusting of shaved cedar and clove. With time, it deepens further, pulling you down to…