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The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 4 to October 2 at 45.7hL/ha with the highest IPT (Indice de Polyphénols Totaux, a measurement of tannin) ever with respect to the Merlot, which underwent some saignée in tank. Matured entirely in new oak, it has wonderful delineation on the nose, quite floral with pressed violets infusing…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Haut-Brion is superb. Silky, soft tannins enshroud a core of black fruit, gravel, chocolate, cloves and licorice, building into a potent, sumptuous, dazzling wine. Exotic and racy, with remarkable polish, this has a ton of potential. It’s an especially sensual, seamless Haut-Brion. All the 2023 needs is time—probably quite a bit of it,…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Haut-Brion was picked at the same time as the La Mission Haut-Brion, albeit the secateurs sheathed one day later, on October 6. The nose is less immediate than the La Mission and the fruit is a little darker: blackcurrant, juniper, hints of black olive and a light cedar scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Carruades de Lafite is friendly, open and quite expressive. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, dried cherries and herbs open up in a mid-weight, fleshy red to drink over the next decade or so. The 2012 is soft, silky and easygoing.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Carruades de Lafite has quite a perfumed and floral bouquet, pencil shaving and tobacco scents filtering through the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lighter than the Le Petit Mouton tasted alongside and just a little conservative on the finish. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index’s Ten Year-On tasting and…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Full, deep red. Wonderfully sappy, floral nose shows more red fruits than black, along with complementary oak spices. Tactile, salty and sharply delineated, conveying outstanding lift to its classically dry flavors of red berries and spices. Obviously a very young wine and yet there’s nothing brutal about it even today; in fact, this is more…