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Loire Chenin Blanc: Underrated No More (Jul 2020)

A perfect example of how 2018 wanted to be sweet and not dry. Harvested late, this sweet wine has 48 grams per liter of residual sugar. Beautiful pear and quince, as well as white blossoms on the nose. Pretty and complex on the palate, with lots of finesse and verve, this is a shapely, stunning…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2018 Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu is a gorgeous, exotic wine. Jasmine, lemon oil and ginger lead into a core of green orchard fruit as the 2018 shows off its considerable charms. A wine of absolutely exquisite beauty, the 2018 is precise and sculpted, with its sweetness very nicely integrated.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne remains a challenging wine. Short, compact and lacking in complexity, the 2011 just doesn’t have that much to offer. On a more positive note, there’s good freshness and fewer of the vegetal notes I saw a few years ago. This is the best showing yet for the 2011.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…