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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petit-Village is sumptuous and racy, but remains very much medium in body. Silky tannins add to the wine's finesse. Dark-toned fruit, chocolate, spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs all meld together in a Petit-Village of distinction and class. The 2018 is very nicely done.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

This Pomerol estate just outside Catusseau was acquired from AXA Millésimes by the Moulin family in the summer of 2020; they had previously purchased Château Beauregard in 2014. I spoke to winemaker Diana Berrouet-Garcia via Zoom, and she explained how they are currently reorganizing the vineyard, replanting some parcels that have been affected by virus…

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Good full ruby. Lightly floral aromas of blackcurrant, maple syrup, mocha, espresso and fresh herbs. Lush and medium-sweet, with very good intensity, bright acidity and a deep, tight core of fruit. Subtle and juicy rather than unctuous or powerful, and impeccably balanced. Long, youthfully aggressive finish features a note of dark chocolate and sneaky persistence….

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2015 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is remarkably fresh and balanced despite its large-scale persona. Minty herbs give way to raspberry and cherry with exotic spices and a hint of pine resin. It boasts depths of silky textures; yet it remains juicy and full of energy, displaying ripe red and black fruits,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(70% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 5% malbec) Medium-deep ruby-red. Sexy red-berry cocktail aromas of raspberry and strawberry spiked by cinnamon. Creamy-smooth on entry, boasting extremely sweet and impressively intense red berry and red cherry flavors. Finishes long, with the slightest hint of youthfully aggressive tannins. I found a strong family resemblance between this wine…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Roc de Cambes is quite backward like the 2009 La Gomerie with ample redcurrant, raspberry, loam and sandalwood aromas eventually coming through with aeration. It does not quite possess the cohesion of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, velvety smooth in texture with a lovely dash of black pepper and…