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Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Langoa Barton is packed with dark red cherry, plum, spice, cedar and tobacco. Over the last few years, an updated style of vinification in a new cellar has yielded a bit more mid-palate sweetness, pliancy and resonance than in the past. It will be interesting to see where this goes, but clearly, we…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Langoa Barton was picked from September 12 until October 2 at around 50hL/ha, with some “late” saignée for half the vat–when it has some “serious color,” according to Damien Barton. Two vats were chaptalized out of a total of 42, the highest at 15%, yielding an average alcohol of 13%. Matured in 60%…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Léoville-Barton marries the classicism the château is so well-known for with an extra kick of textural intensity from the heat of the year. It’s powerful, dark and serious, with compelling notes of black cherry, lavender, spice and blackberry. This is an especially dense, somber Léoville-Barton endowed with tremendous presence. The blend is 87%…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Léoville Barton was picked from September 12 to October 2 and aged in 60% new oak. This takes a long time to settle in the glass, unfolding with black fruit, wild mint and a subtle seaweed scent. This Saint-Julien gains cohesion with aeration—a bit of pep. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins….

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Cheval Blanc is silky, elegant and exceptionally polished. Cabernet Franc is rarely as expressive as it is here. Everything in the 2023 is about detail. All the elements are so well balanced—so integrated. Red/purplish berry fruit, mint, cinnamon, rose petal and blood orange meld together, while seamless tannins wrap it all up in…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Cheval Blanc is uncharacteristically backward on first meeting, and it takes time to really fire up its engines. Quite strict and focused (surprisingly so), the bouquet reveals black fruit, a touch of bilberry, with just a whiff of iris flower. The palate has wonderful symmetry, outstanding mineralité and ample tension. It’s extremely pure,…