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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru is darker in color than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. The bouquet is more upfront and bold, touches of blueberry joining shimmering red fruit that is very well defined and becomes increasingly floral. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky entry. This is very cohesive, offering lithe tannins and a…

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

Moderately saturated palish red color seemed to grow darker with aeration. Fresh perfume of red fruits, dried flowers, truffle, mushroom and underbrush. Not a large-scaled or expansive grand cru but fine-grained and ripe, showing insidious energy to its raspberry and truffley soil tones. Really lovely retention of red berry fruit here. Finishes with cherry and…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, which is 100% de-stemmed, does not have quite the same complexity as the Les Reversées. Scents of dark plum and iodine emerge with time. The medium-bodied palate shows a grainy texture, very good depth and chalky tannin on the minerally finish. Fine, but not as charming or…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2004 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru from Rossignol-Trapet has one of the best aromatics from among 13 wines tasted from this infamous growing season. No greenness here, just delightful red cherry, crushed strawberry and light white peppery aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and decent if decayed red fruit. The slightly dry yet still…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red, a bit brighter than the Latricieres. Lively aromas of red cherry, raspberry and minerals. More tightly wound than the Latricieres, with a solid supporting structure. Finishes longer and more complex, with suggestions of minerals and earth and enticing floral perfume. More open today than the Chambertin.

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. Subdued but complex aromas of raspberry, minerals, flowers, mint and pepper. Supple, sweet and harmonious, with the noblest texture of these 2008s. Inner-palate energy is provided by a firm minerality plus notes of Tellicherry pepper and spices. Quite suave on the back end, with the tannins supported by mid-palate density of material. This…