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His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)

The 1989 Grand Mayne was apparently one of Jean-Pierre Nony’s favourite vintages. Perusing three of my own tasting notes, it is also one of mine, though I have tempered my enthusiasm, partly because the standard of Grand Mayne has improved so much since this point. It has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with just a…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange is ripe and explosive in the glass, with tremendous fruit density and a real sense of power. Exotic spice, mocha, sweet pipe tobacco, cinnamon and floral notes add layers of nuance to a core of super-ripe dark red and purplish fruit in this sumptuous, flamboyantly ripe Saint-Émilion. Soft curves give the 2017…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange was so impressive out of barrel and now in bottle, I see no reason to alter my appreciation. It has a very intense bouquet, one that is reassuringly complex, especially in context of what was a rather ordinary growing season with copious red cherries, boysenberry, hints of iodine and a light terracotta…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1978 Petrus is slightly better than the previous one tasted. It shows moderate bricking on the rim, but healthy and quite deep at its core. It has a conservative, floral nose as usual with plenty of sous-bois. There is a bit of mulch in here, but also a sense of simple joy. The palate…