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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium dark red. Fragrant violet, raspberry and sweet brown spices on the captivating nose. Then compellingly sweet and tactile, with intense ripe red fruit and chocolate flavors that last and last on the smooth, soft aftertaste. Good wine for the money–although Steve Tanzer reminded me that he bought a case of the 1989 en primeur…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Marsannay Rouge has a glorious and vivacious bouquet with red cherries, blueberry and subtle violet aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a fine bead of acidity here, fresh and focused with perfect salinity, a judicious pinch of cracked black pepper enhancing the finish. This comes…