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Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine…

Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Luisants 1er Cru Blanc has a very impressive, mineral-driven bouquet with assiduous reduction that lends edginess without impeding upon terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with great depth and the volume I often look for in a Mont Luisants, almost creamy in texture on the very “gras” finish. Excellent….

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Medium red. Vinous aromas of redcurrant and tobacco. Round on the palate, with a slightly roasted cherry flavor lifted by an element of minerality. A fairly voluminous and solid wine, finishing with fine, dusty tannins.

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Moderately saturated medium red. Bright, nuanced nose combines raspberry, red berries, minerals, menthol and smoke. Refreshing and shapely on the palate, with juicy acidity framing the red fruit and spice flavors. Not a fat style but intense, suave and nicely understated. Finishes long, with noteworthy grip. A lovely 2008 from Beaune.