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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1986 Léoville-Poyferré is certainly one of the best of the decade. Typical of the vintage on the nose, it offers a mélange of smoke and graphite on the nose, tighter than the previous vintage with good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, though it has loosened in recent years. Quite sturdy and…

Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)

The 1982 Château Margaux is a real stunner. An exotic, almost candied bouquet melds into sweet red-hued fruit in a voluptuous, racy Margaux endowed with magnificent purity. Large and ample on the palate, with silky tannins and translucent fruit, the 1982 is rich yet also miraculously seamless. All the elements are in the right place….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

This bottle of 1982 Château Margaux was wonderful yet atypical. This has a heightened sense of brine on the nose that initially drew me towards an older vintage such as 1961. Yet the colour was clearly not as old as that, and it has more youthfulness than you would anticipate. Very complex, yet more reserved…